Finally got the job done yesterday. This being my first time changing a clutch in a RWD car, surprisingly enough the only real trouble I had was with the clutch fork. A quick call to Ellis (OneFlyn95Z28) saved the day and I was back in business. Thanks for the help Ellis! I figured it out after getting off the
phone with you. The clutch fork appeared to be sliding in it's place for me, but once I pushed on it with my finger, as if I was to try to release the clutch, it would fall down and the end of the clutch fork would be sitting against the bellhousing. I put it together that way initially, and thought that maybe everything would just 'pop' in place, but once I pushed the clutch
pedal in, I could tell it wasn't to be that way. Took the slave cylinder back out and had to pry fork out with a couple screwdrivers because it had bound itself against the bellhousing. Doing things Ellis's way, with a little finesse got the fork in place where it should be, and voila', smooth clutch operation.

Would like to provide some FYI for those who don't know about Star clutches. The pressure plate is a Valeo plate just like the stocker. The part #'s even matched up perfectly.

The only difference between the two pressure plates I saw was:

- the stock plate has a circled, stamped "M" after the part # (?)
- the new plate has a circled, stamped "P" after the part # (?)
- the stock plate's fingers were slightly thinner than the new ones, although there were the same # of fingers on each, and had a bubbled ridge stamped down the center of each finger, while the new one's fingers were flat

That's the only real difference between the two [physically] that I could find. Other than that, the clutch pedal pressure still feels the same under my foot as the old one.

The disk is incredibly grabby. I haven't driven it more than ~5 miles so far, but I figure 1 of 3 things will happen each time you start out in 1st gear: bog the car and kill it, break something in the driveline from riding it too much (the ENTIRE car shakes), or bark the tires. So far the best launch RPM I've found is ~1,800 RPM for "normal", "smooth" clutch engagement.

A few people I've talked to over the 'net say that their's has gotten smoother with miles, and I have a good feeling mine will be so as well over time. The only thing that sucks is trying to use reverse because the disk is so grabby.

Anyway, I want to hit a test n' tune day now. It shouldn't be a problem hitting a 1.9x 60' or better with this clutch (depending how risky I wanna be with the 10-bolt).

 

Cool. Never heard of that company though, do they rate the h.p. for that clutch? and how much $$ ?

 

LMAO this same thing happened to me with my stage 5 cause their friggin throwout bearing is like square instead of round my fork didnt get on there all the way, and then when i went to push the pedal in like u said my fork was hanging too low and friigin got smashed into the bellhousing! thought i was gonna have to pull it AGAIN but luckly i got a prybar and was able to pop it back out!

all i wanna know is. does your clutch chatter or not?

 

Man, you need to be on here more! If you read any auto performance mags their ads are in them. You'll hear many mixed reviews of this and many other clutch manufacturers out there. The ONLY clutch I've ever NOT heard complaints about is the McCleod dual friction setup, but it'll set you back ~$1,000.

I believe this clutch setup I have costs ~$500 new. I got lucky and got mine new from a guy off the For Sale board here. He had built his motor well past 600 h.p. and just decided to go with a built TH400 instead of the Star clutch he had, so I got it off him for $425 shipped last August.

This clutch is rated at 600 hp, so if it holds up to what they advertise, I should never be able to break it with what I'm doing. Hope so anyway.

InjectedSS, I have not heard any chatter or noise for that matter thus far at idle, pedal in/out, etc..

 

Dude, I thought I was, guess it aint enough. Now I have read "Spec" but not "Star". I know they have "stages" but only aware of 1-3. Or is every Spec abbreviated for Spec Star? Probly not.

 

The chatter in the stage 3 mite have been fixed when they switched from the 4 puck (carbon or ceramic) disc, to the new and improved 6 puck (mixture of carbon and ceramic surface). Cant wait to install mine, still sitting in the box, haha.

 

I have the 6-puck model disk. "Star" "Spec" whatever, it's the same company. They also have a Stage 5, but I imagine it's probably NOT for street use at all.

Yeah, mine sat in the box for a year before I got to it. My car drove fine, just got to the point where it didn't like hard launches with DR's at the track.

 

They make a stage 1 through 5, but I think stage 5 is a iron unsprung disc good for like 1,000 hp or something, must sound ROUGH, wonder if there are any sparks

 

oh it is lemme tell ya... I HAVE IT and its NO JOKE it was soo ruthless that i took it back out after driving it for like 2 miles its LOUD.. it chatters like no ones business! the street twin cant compare to the stage 5 as far as PRICE, RIGITY and HOLDING goes IMHO!! honestly I would like to see someone SLIP OR BREAK a SPEC STAGE 5!!! its gotta be next to impossible im not even kidding! i didnt mind the grabbyness of the stage 5, although reverse was a JOKE but the worst thing i hated about it was the CHATTER! sounded like i was screeching the tires everytime i would take off! spoke with spec and being the pimps that they are offered to swap me to something a lil less extreme SPEC

 

I believe the material is a combo of both.

 

Yea, the new stage 3's dont come in choice anymore. They upgraded to a 6 puck and mixed the materials, seems to have fixed ALL problems it had i think.

 

I have Spec Stage 3 Carbon 6 puck. It chattered at first but not any more. 2000 miles on it. I really like it. Reverse does want to chatter, but if you use a pumping motion you can get the car going 5 - 10mph and then just let it out all the way.