Stall or Gears First?
Stall or Gears First?
3.73's or 2400 stall?
Pro's / Con's?
What first on an 94 A4 street car with 37k? Which would give me better 1/4 mile gains on a stock engine? I already have 3.23's so would a 2400 stall be a better option? I have street tires and wont be getting drag radials anytime soon. I am trying to keep my car as street friendly as possible since it is my daily driver and from what I understand the SLP stall does just that. Plus isnt hard on the wallet and doesnt require reprogramming. I already have a catback, the shift kit and DS are waiting to be installed.
What do you guys think?
-Dustin-
Pro's / Con's?
What first on an 94 A4 street car with 37k? Which would give me better 1/4 mile gains on a stock engine? I already have 3.23's so would a 2400 stall be a better option? I have street tires and wont be getting drag radials anytime soon. I am trying to keep my car as street friendly as possible since it is my daily driver and from what I understand the SLP stall does just that. Plus isnt hard on the wallet and doesnt require reprogramming. I already have a catback, the shift kit and DS are waiting to be installed.
What do you guys think?
-Dustin-
IMO, gears. Most people don't see a gain with the other until after they do some more serious mods. I wouldn't do the converter until you do a cam.
In my case, I did the converter first. Although it was a little too big for the stock cam, so I was missing most of the torque of the motor. Then I threw the 3.73's on thinking the 2.73's were killing it and I didn't gain anything. 12.9@104 w/ 1.77 60'
Then after I did the cam and put my powerband in the right place, my times plummeted to one in my sig. Now that I've got heads, it should go even lower because I can 60' even better with more power.
In my case, I did the converter first. Although it was a little too big for the stock cam, so I was missing most of the torque of the motor. Then I threw the 3.73's on thinking the 2.73's were killing it and I didn't gain anything. 12.9@104 w/ 1.77 60'
Then after I did the cam and put my powerband in the right place, my times plummeted to one in my sig. Now that I've got heads, it should go even lower because I can 60' even better with more power.
From what I have read in searches, both are going to cause me to lose traction without DR or Slicks, which I do not have the money for. So should I put the money towards LT's and Suspension mods? I already run 2.1 60's with the stock Z rated Goodyears. Maybe Rskrause has some comments? I really dont want to lose traction, I am looking for better 1/4 mile times and to just be faster.
-Dustin-
-Dustin-
It might not be a bad idea to consider those suspension mods before you start pouring your money into HP mods. I mean, sure, you could add headers, gears and a stall, but with all that, you'll really kiss traction goodbye. Best bang for the buck is gears - meaning most noticeable difference by the driver for the cost. Not to mention you'd spend more on headers than you would getting a set of Nitto DR's out back. You could also do some lower control arms.
The only reason I'm suggesting these things is because I'm in the same boat with a little more mods. I'm wishing I would've paid more attention to traction from the beginning. It'll help you in the long run to make better use of those go-fast mods.
The only reason I'm suggesting these things is because I'm in the same boat with a little more mods. I'm wishing I would've paid more attention to traction from the beginning. It'll help you in the long run to make better use of those go-fast mods.
Thanks for the advice, but I was trying to put DR off until I could afford 17's all the way around, which isnt soon. I have considered DR many times but would like to do wheels and tires at the same time. My Goodyears are basically new and I wont get the cash I need from them if I sell them used with salad shooters.
I guess I'll just do LT's and some SFC so I can still hook up in races.
-Dustin-
I guess I'll just do LT's and some SFC so I can still hook up in races.
-Dustin-
No question about it - your most dramatic mod will be a higher stall. I have experience in this with an 82 Camaro with stock 305 and 3.08 gears. It ran 16.28. We installed a 3.73 gear and it picked up to 16.07. The next week, we put a 3500 converter (stock was about 1800) and it went 15.72.
If you use any of the drag race programs, get your combo as close as you can and then change the gear ratio and record the improvement. Change it back and then increase stall. It will confirm what I experienced.
Another thing to keep in mind is if you change the gear ratio, your speedometer will have to be re programmed (not a huge thing but something to be considered).
Hope this helps!
If you use any of the drag race programs, get your combo as close as you can and then change the gear ratio and record the improvement. Change it back and then increase stall. It will confirm what I experienced.
Another thing to keep in mind is if you change the gear ratio, your speedometer will have to be re programmed (not a huge thing but something to be considered).
Hope this helps!
Originally posted by ppmz28
no doubt about it...gears.. best thing I ever done
no doubt about it...gears.. best thing I ever done
-Dustin-
I havent lost much traction going from 2.73s to 3.73s. they spin a little but I usually always get grip. I havent had the chance to take it to the strip yet, though. Of course if you pound on it you'll spin a bit
It looks like gears have won since I can get them for $100.
So I guess what I need to ask now is with the stock directional Z rated Goodyears how will traction be?
With the same exact car, when racing from a roll the car with 3.73's will jump out front since it can accelerate faster than the car with 3.23's right?
-Dustin-
So I guess what I need to ask now is with the stock directional Z rated Goodyears how will traction be?
With the same exact car, when racing from a roll the car with 3.73's will jump out front since it can accelerate faster than the car with 3.23's right?
-Dustin-
Re: Stall or Gears First?
Well an update:
I now have the mods in my sig: Hooker LT's, Mufflex Y, GMMG catback and Lingenfelter CAI. Traction is decent and I am considering some used BFG DR.
I have come to a Y in my road and remembered I had this thread. So, now what do you think 3.73's or perhaps a 24-2800 stall. The car is still a daily driver and I have the oppurtunity to buy BFG Drag Radials for $100 with rims. I go to the track once a year, I am mostly looking for fun on the streets while not murdering what little gas mileage I have left.
It also seems that since I added the LT's that the power bands have moved up a bit in the RPM range. The car seems to pick up quick after 2-2500 rpms? Would the stall or gears help me more?
Comments?
-Dustin-
I now have the mods in my sig: Hooker LT's, Mufflex Y, GMMG catback and Lingenfelter CAI. Traction is decent and I am considering some used BFG DR.
I have come to a Y in my road and remembered I had this thread. So, now what do you think 3.73's or perhaps a 24-2800 stall. The car is still a daily driver and I have the oppurtunity to buy BFG Drag Radials for $100 with rims. I go to the track once a year, I am mostly looking for fun on the streets while not murdering what little gas mileage I have left.
It also seems that since I added the LT's that the power bands have moved up a bit in the RPM range. The car seems to pick up quick after 2-2500 rpms? Would the stall or gears help me more?
Comments?
-Dustin-


