LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Stage 8 locking SBC header bolts - How long?

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Old Apr 25, 2004 | 02:30 PM
  #1  
1996 | Z28 SS's Avatar
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Stage 8 locking SBC header bolts - How long?

I'm ording accessories from thunderracing for my Jet-Hot install and when I came to the Stage 8 locking header bolts, I noticed they have two lengths. 3/8 x 16 - 3/4" and 3/8 x 16 - 1" long.

Edit - I'm also looking at the O2 sensor extendors... and I'm a little confused now... I'm having a custom y-pipe with dual cats made... what do I need for that?

Which one is the correct length? Thanks!

Last edited by 1996 | Z28 SS; Apr 25, 2004 at 02:47 PM.
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 03:21 PM
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Make your own extentions. Just cut the o2 sensor wires, crimp in wire between them, and connect the o2's back up. Its really simple.

You are just wasting your $$$ if you spend $50 for extentions. Dont let them nickle and dime you over wires. Spend your money on things that matter like breslin locking bolts. They are the best.
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 10:08 PM
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1996 | Z28 SS's Avatar
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I never thought about doing that.. thanks! I always thought the extentions were a little overpriced...

But still... how long do I need the stage 8 header bolts? 3/4" or 1"? Or does it matter?

Thanks!
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 10:41 PM
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I used 3/4"
Old Apr 25, 2004 | 11:18 PM
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Use 1". With 3/4" you risk stripping your heads. Not enough thread to tighten securely IMO
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 05:52 PM
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1996 | Z28 SS's Avatar
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1" it is... thanks guys

Oh.. and any objections to the "extending my own" O2 sensor idea? Seems really simple... what kind of wire is it? Is it anything like extending speaker wires? (Thats the only thing similar that I have done...)

Thanks!
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 05:54 PM
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a wire's a wire, cut it, extend it, recrimp or solder it. couldn't be easier. if you've done speaker wire, you can do these.
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:05 PM
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Don't waste your money on the Stage 8 bolts. You won't be able to put on half the locks. Just get some arp bolts, put red thread locker on them, and retighten them after a week. Then check on them ever oil change.
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:13 PM
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I agree with dynoflog.

I used stainless steel arp header bolts, only 3/4 inch long on my Jet hot longtubes. They bolt up with a 3/8" wrench or socket where theres room for it. I didn't use the washers that came with them though, just put a drop of locktite and torque them pretty hard by hand. Figure I will just keep on eye on them for a while.
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:18 PM
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Locktite, or threadlocker?

Not me. I don't want to break off a bolt in my heads trying to get them back off.

I used antiseize compound on mine, and I used the bolts that come with my headers(MACs). They were 1" bolts and use a 7/16" wrench to tighten. Haven't come loose.

Just tighten them after the first few heat cycles and they'll stay set.

Dan
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:35 PM
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Get some breslin locking bolts, they are a little more expensive, but will never back out on you and are easy to use.

Breslin Locking Bolts

$46 for breslins
$38 for Stage 8

Get the breslins, 10x better
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 06:45 PM
  #12  
1996 | Z28 SS's Avatar
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So antiseize will work fine? Ok.. sounds good.. saves me even more now lol thanks a lot.

But just curious... what makes the stage 8 header bolts so hard to use? How exactly do they work??

And those Breslin ones look every simple.. anyone agree to use those over antiseize? I just don't need the hassle of breaking a bolt in the head or having to tighten the bolts every week...

Oh and I can probably get the breslin bolts for cheap from my shop teacher... he's a mechanic as well and he always gets me awesome deals

thanks guys
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 08:03 PM
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stage 8's work by having a washer like disc that has a cutout the exact same size (3/8") as the hex bolt and pushes against the header primary so it wont rotate. Then you have to put a crimp like thing that slips over the bolt and keeps the washer thingy in place. That last part is hard because you have to push them in in REALLY right places, and they are tough to slip on.
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 09:29 PM
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Originally posted by Spinner
Use 1". With 3/4" you risk stripping your heads. Not enough thread to tighten securely IMO
I have had no problems with stripping heads but I did find that if the pipe comes off the head at an angle (like my #6 does) a 1 inch bolt is long enough that you can't line it up straight enough to thread into the hole.
Originally posted by dynoflog
Don't waste your money on the Stage 8 bolts. You won't be able to put on half the locks. Just get some arp bolts, put red thread locker on them, and retighten them after a week. Then check on them ever oil change.
I had no problem putting on all of the locks. It isn't very hard, especially compared to the rest of a header install. I put anti sieze on the bolts and I never have to check them to see if they are still tight.
Old Apr 26, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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There is no possible way you could break a bolt of because of the thread locker. I does not seal as well as everyone thinks. Think about it, the engine constantly changes its heat cycles, on and off, that causes the locking properties of the compound to lose their effectiveness. I use red on everything that has a possibility of coming loose and haven't ever broken a bolt.
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