Thunderracing has 2 different kinds...one is 3/4'' long and one is 1'' long. what is the difference between the 2 and which ones should i get? Also i have Jet Hots and the Primaries are ALMOST touching some of the header bolts, will the stage 8's still work? and above all else, are the stage 8's worth it?

 

I know some guys here love them but I threw mine in the trash and went back to my good old ARP bolts.

My problems were with the bolt heads being too close to the tubes and therefore the locking device would not work properly. They claim you can trim them but it just didn't seem anywhere near worth the hassle. I also felt that the ones I got on I had to sacrifice tightness by backing them off a little to get the heads in the proper position to use the locking devices.

All in all I hated them, threw them in the trash and went back to what has worked for me for years.

Just my opinion, which is what you asked for.

 

I just helped a friend of mine install some Jet Hot LTs and Stage 8 bolts last weekend. As Blown mentioned, we had to sacrifice some tightness to use the locks which I didn't like. I had to grind a little off of one of the locks to get it to fit between the bolt and the primary. The headers were sealed great and to my knowledge having to back the bolt out a little hasn't caused any ill effects.

 

Heres my story.
Got the Stage 8s, installed them when I did LTs, got a little leak cause I didnt heat cycle em.
Took off the locks and tightened the bolts up, left the locks off so I could heat cycle and tighten as needed.
Never have put the locks back on.
I check em once a week and they have not loosened up yet.
They do work but I am beginning to believe the hassle is not worth it.

 

I went with ARP bolts...I tightened them once a week religiously for a month or so, and never had to tighten them again. The key is the initial break in...I installed them, started the car and idled for a few minutes, tightened them. Drove around for 10 minutes, tightened them. Went for a 100 mile drive, tightened them. Then once a week for a month. Now I check them every once in a while for my own piece of mind, and they don't move at all.

 

You guys with the LT's.....how did you get to the last bolt on each side? The driver side there just isnt enough room to get any tool in there so its backed out a little and on the passenger side there is NO bolt in the last location (closest to firewall) because the bolt just didnt want to go in?? so now i have an exhaust leak. Just wanna know how you guys did it.

 

I have a small wrench to get those back bolts.
All my bolts went in pretty easy.
I think the fourth one on the passenger side (#6 primary) was the only one I had trouble with and it just threaded in a little tight.

 

Those last bolts can be particularly troublesome on some header designs. Especially #8. The only way to get a bolt in there at all (as you experienced) is to manipulate the bolt into the hole in the flange before you even get the headers into the car then work it from there or, using a stud on those final 2 holes may be another solution. We installed a set of JBA shorties on a friends 97 and didn't realize the problem until it was too late (yeah, sure we could have completely removed that side and started over .... NOT). Strangest thing is that I have the same headers on my 96, supposedly the same setup right? Wrong. I can get my #8 in without much difficulty and there was absolutely no way on his 97. Go figure.

 

ARP 1" 12pts. Re torque every so often.JMHO

 

Blown 96:
so did you eventually get it in? im replacing my gaskets this weekend and need all the advice i can get. the last bolt on the driver side is a pain cuz i cant get ANYTHING back there. I can reach the back pass side if i could get the bolt in. is there any kind of ratchet-wrench thing at Home Depot or something? the bolts are 7/16 right?

 

Drivers side I got from the bottom with a 5/16 1/4inch swivel socket. Passenger side also from the bottom with a allen head socket with a bolt head adapter in it and a gear wench(I love those damn wrenches). .....I might add that the ypipe was off at the time also.

 

No, we didn't get it in. It was left out. If it were mine, I would have removed the PS header and either put a stud in the head or tried to get the bolt through the hole prior to mating it up to the head. He sold the car so the new owner likely is having exhaust leak issues (buyer beware!).

Try accessing #7 from the bottom. Also, if you still can't get to it, try removing the Y-pipe to get better (arm) access. I've gotten to the point were I remove my Y-pipe even to change plugs. It's tight but they should all be accessible with at least a box or open end wrench. It also helps to have 12 point heads on the bolts so that it's easier to get a wrench on it and have some (although very little) swing room.

Good luck and go into it with plenty of patience and time.

 

IMO, the stage 8's are just a waste. I have always used ARP 12pts. Use the 1" bolts, get em tight, drive it for a week and then just recheck em. I did that 2 years ago on my LT's and no problems since.... unfortunatly they have to come off this winter. The bolts have held up better than the coating has

 

Listen, stage 8's are definitely worth it (40 bucks). Without a doubt. Some trimming may be required on the washers, but it is relatively nothing. Snips and a dremel are all you need. I have hooker LT's, and the rear bolts on both sides are more difficult, but not impossible. I chopped an open end wrench to shorten it for this purpose. I went with pn 8911, 3/4" and i never looked back. You wont be sorry...

 

Stage 8 not worth the money!!!!!