Stability/Aligment
I went to Robert Positano's Pontiac Dealer.
They first wants me to do 4 wheel aligment
I told then GM recomend only 2 wheel
After few argument and he check with Serives Manager they agreed.
After few min Guy came out and said your Tire Rod shot!
Need a new one. I said ok
Total drive out came out to be $248.96
My new Aligment is
Pic of Alighment
Work order
Pic
Now my car is worest.
Now when ever I do full wheel turn I hear tuck tuck sound (Not clunk).
Its still unstable at higher speed Aka <65Mph
They first wants me to do 4 wheel aligment
I told then GM recomend only 2 wheel
After few argument and he check with Serives Manager they agreed.
After few min Guy came out and said your Tire Rod shot!
Need a new one. I said ok
Total drive out came out to be $248.96
My new Aligment is
Pic of Alighment
Work order
Pic
Now my car is worest.
Now when ever I do full wheel turn I hear tuck tuck sound (Not clunk).
Its still unstable at higher speed Aka <65Mph
Sorry to hear of your bad fortune. My suggestion is find someone else to check the car.
Computerized alignment sheets mean NOTHING. I know of one dealer in my area where the mechanics get other mechanics to push or pull on the tires long enough for the computer to pass just so the print out comes.
Computerized alignments have a wide tolerance. Some cars can work well once the car is put just within those limits. Other cars can not. It's those others that should be tested and tweaked as necessary, however in most places, they only want to move the cars through. These same places expect you won't find the problem until their warranty is up.
You need to find a good frame shop that does alignments the old way and have them check the car. You could go back to the dealer but I suspect since you will have to pay the frame shop to check it, you might as well have them fix it.
BTW that was good of you to pick up on the dealer telling you a RWD car with a differential needs a 4 wheel alignment. I wonder how many people actually fall for that and have to pay much more for the job?
I had no idea that scam was going on.
Perhaps the 4 wheel alignment scam should have tipped you off.
Computerized alignment sheets mean NOTHING. I know of one dealer in my area where the mechanics get other mechanics to push or pull on the tires long enough for the computer to pass just so the print out comes.
Computerized alignments have a wide tolerance. Some cars can work well once the car is put just within those limits. Other cars can not. It's those others that should be tested and tweaked as necessary, however in most places, they only want to move the cars through. These same places expect you won't find the problem until their warranty is up.
You need to find a good frame shop that does alignments the old way and have them check the car. You could go back to the dealer but I suspect since you will have to pay the frame shop to check it, you might as well have them fix it.
BTW that was good of you to pick up on the dealer telling you a RWD car with a differential needs a 4 wheel alignment. I wonder how many people actually fall for that and have to pay much more for the job?
I had no idea that scam was going on.
Perhaps the 4 wheel alignment scam should have tipped you off.
Here's a good starting point:
Camber - all the negative you can get
Caster - +4.x up to 5
Toe - 0
Toe is the one I'd play with. I run zero toe right now but I'm going to go with some slight toe out (for autocross). Zero toe might give you a little wander in turns but nothing terrible.
Camber - all the negative you can get
Caster - +4.x up to 5
Toe - 0
Toe is the one I'd play with. I run zero toe right now but I'm going to go with some slight toe out (for autocross). Zero toe might give you a little wander in turns but nothing terrible.
You never want positive camber in these cars. Why? The point is to keep the tire as flat on the pavement as possible. If you're already starting out positive and you take a turn and the car rolls and goes even more positive then you're only adding to the problem.
All 4th gens are camber limited unless you take drastic steps. The most you might see with stock springs is -.5 to -.8 or so. Not much. But MUCH better than starting positive.
Toe in for street driving is fine, just not alot. Toe in will give more straight line stability but cause your turn-in to be slower. I currently run zero toe with no problems. And even though I drive my car daily, I'm going to have it re-aligned to about 3/32" total toe out for autocross.
All 4th gens are camber limited unless you take drastic steps. The most you might see with stock springs is -.5 to -.8 or so. Not much. But MUCH better than starting positive.
Toe in for street driving is fine, just not alot. Toe in will give more straight line stability but cause your turn-in to be slower. I currently run zero toe with no problems. And even though I drive my car daily, I'm going to have it re-aligned to about 3/32" total toe out for autocross.
My car some how become very sensitve to road crown.
Its feels like; its wants go else where.
I have to keep counter steer.
You think may be my BMR LCA need greese or Panhard rod gone bad ?????
Its feels like; its wants go else where.
I have to keep counter steer.
You think may be my BMR LCA need greese or Panhard rod gone bad ?????


