Ok so I don't have the money to buy a new engine or I would. So my options seem to be: buy a used engine if I can find one with less miles than mine, or get mine rebuilt. Car is already in the shop, they say quite a bit of damage was done and told me those were my choices pretty much. They said they have another LT1 from a 93 TA they could swap, but it has 120k miles on it so I dunno if thats a good idea, seeing as mine had 100k on it and spun a bearing with only bolt-ons. Don't see much growing room in that engine. Haven't found any other used LT1s around my area (Tacoma WA) yet either.
So what do you guys think?
Also this shop will install non-oem equipment if I provide it, so I'm thinking if its cost effective I should probably upgrade some things while they're in there right? But I only have around 2k MAYBE 2500 to spend so I need some advice.
Which route should I go? And if rebuild, should I look into upgrading some things while the engine's ripped apart, if so what should I look at having done?

I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to the engine mods or rebuilds so I'm hoping to get some advice from you guys in the hopes the garage I have it in won't rape me on the price things I don't need to do.

Edit: I've also recently heard you can get new LT1s for around 3k or possibly even a forged crank 355 for around the same. Has anyone seen anything around these prices? If so I would also be open to the idea of taking out a loan to buy a new engine.

 

You can get some decent rebuild kits. For what you have to play with.How much will they charge you for work though?

 

i just did the same thing. the #8 journal on my crank is fuc*** up. i am just putting in a new crank, rods, pistons, and new rings. it will be cheaper than putting in a whole new but used motor. especially with that many miles. who knows that motor could do the same damn thing. my best bet to you is to buy the parts yourself and have them install it. they will rape you on the price. i went and got a qoute for the same thing that they would be doing for you and they quoted me at $3000 plus parts which was just a crank at the time. i can only imagine what the price would be if you were to do the crank, pistons, rods, etc. Too much is my suggestion. i decided to di it myself and its really not that hard just time consuming. you can buy a motor and a tranny on here for ****, $1500-$2500. i would just replace everything personally. it sounds like you wabt a motor though. im just letting you know what i did. if you need help with the rebuild i might be able to help you. i have a cherry picker and some big jacks, i know how to do it now. my car is nearly finished i just have to bolt the k member back on and put the motor mounts on and its done. let me know what you think.

 

Why do you think you spun a bearing, i.e, cause of spinning bearing.
Bearings can spin with 0 miles on them, especially after a cam install.

If engine is shot, I would search for another engine, perhaps buy the whole car if wrecked, but low miles. Then do a plug and play, rather than having someone rebuild you short block.

At least if you buy a long block in good condition, you know what it is going to cost. If you commit to having someone do whatever they need to do you are not going to know how much it will eventully cost and would probably cost more than a new engine.

Bear in mind that if you can locate a good long block or new short block, no matter where it is, it probably won't cost more than a couple hundered to have it drop shipped to your door step.

Whatever you decide, if you don't want to take a chance with the local shop----tell them NOW that you can't afford to do anything yet and will get back to them. I.e, do not let them keep the car or start working on it or you may get a mechanic's lean on it and you will not be able to remove the car unless you pay them what you owe them, including storage, analysis, tear-down, etc. Beware, beware, beware. JMHO.

BTW, if you search the world around, you still might be able to locate a replacement shortblock (which is automatically a 4-bolt). I doubt you will have much success finding one, but it depends on how hard you look, including all dealerships nationwide---never know what's in their warehouse.

 

i would expet at $1000 for some good parts. Crank, pistons, rods, bearing and rings. maby a little more. so who knows about the damn shop, they are out for your money. They care about how much can i get this kid to spend. Like saying put another LT1 in there with 100,000 miles so this guy can come back in a year or a couple months and we can do it again. HAHA. I don't think its worth it. just do a rebuild. its way cheaper and way better than putting an old motor back in. Especially when your spending all this money. look at it this way its BRAND NEW SHORT BLOCK pretty much.

 

I feel your pain man. I spun a rod bearing last year. Swaped in a used lt1 motor and spun a main bearing a few weeks ago.

 

100k? Out of curiosity, what type of oil do you use and how often changed?

 

Do it yourself, i just built my 383 and spun a bearing, i am just waiting for the time to pull that shtuff out and swap the old bearings with the new ones, i have not driven it so the damage should slim to none. Good luck.

 

Sent you a PM.....

 

Well doing it myself is kinda risky cuz I don't know what I'm doing as I said before, plus with the number of people who tell me it is a very time consuming job (plus the time it'd take for me to figure out wtf I'm doing) and being military and not always having time to work on it, that seems to make quite a bit of down time for a DD car.

I'm not sure yet how much the labor will cost thru them yet.
Was hoping to find someone who knows of decent places to look for new components at a reasonable price. If I can find the whole rotating assembly and a rebuild kit for a better price than they can, then that is what I'll do.
And yes while I'd love a new engine, if it can't be found quick and for around the price I'm looking at, then its not an option.
The rebuild is looking more and more like what I need to do, just need help beating their prices so I can just pay them labor pretty much and thats it.
So any ideas on where to get new or even slightly used parts I would need for a rebuild at a good price would be great.
Well, any ideas really, keep em coming if you think of a better option for me. But like I said, not really knowledgeable on internals yet so try and be specific if possible.
Thanks a lot guys

 

one of the sponsors has a 355 with no core at a soar dick price...can't beat it!

 

Okay if someone could tell me if these will work I'd greatly appreciate it, from summit, part #'s:
FEM-2056383M-000
ESP-435337505700
ESP-5700BBLW

Obviously thats looking at having to replace the crank, which I was told may or may not of been damaged. Engine isn't out yet so I don't know yet what will NEED to be replaced, but I am looking at everything trying to be prepared. Is there anything else that could of been damaged I'm not looking at and should be?
I think that covers it but I'm not sure, and it puts parts at about $1300 and replaces everything internally that I might need if I'm not mistaken. If this is not everything they would need for something like this please tell me, or if any of these will not work for any reason, please tell me.

How much damage, if any, could of been done to the block, heads, etc?

 

you won't know until it is out and torn down...so don't order anything! just wait and see what you have to work with first.

When you dive into this type of thing...the nickel and dime stuff is what kills you....when you get ready to button it up and $$ starts to get real tight.....

 

I have used Pennzoil 10W-30 and FRAM filter both times I've changed the oil since I've had it, which is only about a year now and less than 2,500 miles. I have no idea how well maintained the car was with the previous owner or what brand/type of oil he used.

Edit: mdacton, not ordering anything yet, just looking, but I want to make sure I'm looking at the right stuff so I'm prepared should I need to buy it. Just threw those Part #'s out so someone could check and see if I'm looking in the right direction and if I missed anything. That way when I get the call, probably Monday, saying the engine's been ripped apart now and I need this and this and this, I'll know if I can find exactly what I need and tell them to either buy their stuff if its cheaper, or don't touch it, I'll get the parts you put them in. Trying to get it out of the shop ASAP. That $$ will add up quick as **** I'm sure the longer its in there.

 

BINGO! Penzoil! Thats your problem! Lol, I don't know if penzoil is still like it used to be back in the day, but I wouldn't put that in any cars imo. It used to be some sludgin, burnin, crap.