If you wanna help, please see my latter posts, i got all the bearings out

I can believe this, i need to vent some

about a year and a half ago, i did a heads and cc306 cam. with in an hour spun all the mains. Pulled motor, put in new bearing and TA-DUH! there go 3 rods

I was told it was due to inexperience/highmiles(65k)/bad luck....


ok fast forward to present

I just finish making a new motor
stock shortblock i got from a friends with 40k miles on it. some $3000 heads and a sollid roller cam.
I spent several day making sure everything was right.
started it up, oil pressure great ran it from 1700-2500 rpm for about 13 minutes, and change oil.

I had put maybe 250 miles on it, nothing really hard yet, treating it nice no problems ran great and i was happy.

Actully one problem, around 20-30 miles it devloped a squeak/light knock. The squeak went away around 100 miles.
Today i am driving at 2000 rpm, 6th gear. i notice the oil PSI is down, wayy down to about 25-30 psi(from 50).
Also under any load, the oil pressure will drop to maybe 18-20.
:mad !!!

Because it a soild roller, it is quite loud, but theres a noise thats always been there that i think was mistaken for a niosy cam... KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK.

Drained some oil found it to be very metaliky. but nothing magnetic?


Whay does this happen to me? what did i do wrong? someone wanna buy it from me? anyone wanna shoot me? please???

 

Got a question

I have a BMR tubular K-member and so i can easyly pull my pan.
It has been 8 miles since the change in oil pressure
its has been 90 miles since first squeek(car ran great, smooth and the aqueak stop after maybe 20 miles)

Do you think i can drop the pan and slap on some new bearings, tq them down, check clearances, and go?
Do you think the crank is bad?
Thoughts?

 

At 2000 rpm 25-30 is not bad.....it should go up and hold during acceleration and higher rpms though.

At 250 miles pearly looking metal in oil is to be expected......I changed my oil at 100 miles and 300miles and each time the oil had a fair amont of pearl look to it ....changed it again at 500 and virtually no metal at all was in the oil.

Change the oil and filter and see what you have. You have cause for consern but dont panic yet.

 

I would drop the pan and have a look for sure....I know of a few people who have done mains without removing the engine but I dont know how in the heck you could do it "right" that way.

 

Ok

Founf out i can put my pan with out taking the tranny or engine out. hopefully i can get it back in

Pulled all the bearing except for the 2 main caps with the windage tray studs on them.
Nothing is spun. but all of the bearings have a discolored line down the middle, some worse then others, and at the top and bottom they look worn, like dicolored, shiny, whatever, this part take up aboue 75 degrees of the top and 75 degrees of the bottom. ??

Also one is scratched up, and the mains look funny, spotty discoloration. I WILL GET SOME PICS SOON(tonight)

And help? wanna recomend something? how much would a new sety of bearing cost me and so you have some part #s

 

If you don't see any copper showing on the bearings the problem is some were else. if they are only shinny silver with a few scraches they are ok. cut open the oil filter and look for copper. maybe it's the cam bearings. Check the oil pump pick up for cracks.

 

I dont have the part # but I used the Clevite 77 H series

 

My 4-stroke dirtbike make a loud squeeking/screeching about a hour of riding after a rebuild... It was the head gasket , then after about 10 minutes it quit squeeking, I changed the oil, and its fine taking TONS of abuse ... So i dont know if that is relevant to cars in any way but possibly the head gasket was the squeeking at first till it seated rite somehow ??? I guess its possibly for that to happen with out antifreeze getting in the engine, and you will get metal in the engine. Change it at 350 or so , too be on the safe side to see if there is ALOT more where or if it is diminishing ... most of it should be gone by 500 ...

 

Ok got pics... go here
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_146_full.jpg
and
http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...3_147_full.jpg

if link dont work go to the bottom of page 8 at www.cardomain.com/id/camarossguy2


Heres the deal. from reading above you have seen the oil problem. first 192 miles were fine, no fluxuation ar anythin, all of a sudden, the oil pressure goes. under load it will drop over 45 psi.
No non of the bearings are spun, but some are worn pretty bad.
So let say tomoro i put all new bearings in(rods and mains), will it just do it again?

 

I wouldn't put new bearings in the way the old ones look.
If that engine was stock I would think it must have had problems before if you didn't touch anything.
Maybe some guys will respond who know more than I do but those bearings don't look dirty they look worn bad.

If the engine had that low of miles on it maybe you could just pull it out and take it to a machine shop and have them do a stock rebuild and check it out for you

let us know what you find out

 

Looks like an oil starvation problem to me. THe bottom bearing looks roasted in the middle. Maybe some oil passages are clogged?

 

I would definetly bring it to a machine shop to have them look at that. Usually when its shiney on some spots its because the crank or rod ride more on one spot the others.

 

those spots in the middle sure do look like heat discoloration to me. just like when you wled or put a torch on metal, it gets that "gas on water" color

 

Anyone notice the hunk of wood with the bearings on it say www.fbody.com ? lol

Anyways heres a TTT for ya ... And the bearings look way worn for a 250 mile engine. I agree with the other guys it looks like it got too hot too ... Probably from oil starvation like theyve said. Also if you dont have the $$$ for a machine shop to check it out, at least get a good set of Calipers and check the tolerances of everything ... Think the bolts holding the rod to the carnk could have been overtightened ? I donno if that could cause that or not but I dont see why it couldnt either. That would have kept oil from lubing them ? Also was the bottom end parts caoted with oil prior to the starting of the engine?

 

Ok the more I think about it, my last post is jsut retarded, If they were over tightened that wouldnt explain why the other bearings are shot ... inless metal from the first ones going ( From being overtightened as a possibility ? ) got in the other ones and screwed them up then too ...