Spark plug wire routing with LT headers
Spark plug wire routing with LT headers
There might be a write up or "well-known" after-market routing of the wires from the
distributor and up OTVC, but I can't find it. I'm mostly interested in the wires on
the passenger side. (I have a 95 Z).
I'm trying to decide the best route for the wires. If you look here, you'll see how
the wires are routed (scroll down a bit) from a fellow Kooks owner:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...=567173&page=5
I examined the passenger side, trying to decide the best route for those wires.
I am seriously considering re-tooling the power steering/alternator aluminum
bracket. I think a die-grinder would do the trick. A "wire slot" could be cut in the
lower portion of the bracket (under the alternator) and then another up through
the top of the bracket. It'll mean removing that bracket, but it might be worth it.
Look in here for photos and the proposed cutting of "slots" for the wires:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay/Z28 (last 2 photos).
I thought about carrying the slot out to the end of the bracket, but thought that
might weaken the bracket.
distributor and up OTVC, but I can't find it. I'm mostly interested in the wires on
the passenger side. (I have a 95 Z).
I'm trying to decide the best route for the wires. If you look here, you'll see how
the wires are routed (scroll down a bit) from a fellow Kooks owner:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...=567173&page=5
I examined the passenger side, trying to decide the best route for those wires.
I am seriously considering re-tooling the power steering/alternator aluminum
bracket. I think a die-grinder would do the trick. A "wire slot" could be cut in the
lower portion of the bracket (under the alternator) and then another up through
the top of the bracket. It'll mean removing that bracket, but it might be worth it.
Look in here for photos and the proposed cutting of "slots" for the wires:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay/Z28 (last 2 photos).
I thought about carrying the slot out to the end of the bracket, but thought that
might weaken the bracket.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,027
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
I ran mine over the valve cover. I could only get one wire between the bracket and water pump as in the above pic due to running heat shielding the entire length of my wires. I think the other three ran under the alternator and then between an AC line and block. I don't have any pics, and my car is in Kentucky.

I think that's the routing you're talking about. I thought of running them like above, but there isn't a whole lot of room near the WP and I was afraid of the wires getting singed (that WP gets hot!).
As to cutting that hole, that's a lot of work to pull the whole bracket.

I think that's the routing you're talking about. I thought of running them like above, but there isn't a whole lot of room near the WP and I was afraid of the wires getting singed (that WP gets hot!).
As to cutting that hole, that's a lot of work to pull the whole bracket.
Made4You looms and new MSD wires - I would not consider attempting
to route the wires under the headers.
What I'm trying to solve is how to route the wires *from* the dist. cap
*to* the valve covers. For some reason, upon my examining the
layout of my LT1, i dont see the "room" (or route) that "ssbowtie1"
photo shows. I'll have to doubleh-check it this afternoon, but I seem
to remember that route, on mine, would not accommodate all the
wires easily, but I'll look again.
I considered "Green96Z" routing option, but it sure looks tight going
in-between the power-steering pump and A/C - the wires are going
to have to be anchored solidly between those two so a wire doesnt
stray and get "cut" by one of the pulleys.
The "default" wiring route GM chose wont work because the stock
looms arent big enough for the MSD wires to go through, which is
why I'm looking for another routing option. It's obvious, either of
"ssbowtie1" or "Green96Z" options will work, I was hoping for a route
that will allow easier access for future servicing of the wires. I've
found that *nothing* is easily accessed on the LT1 - in retrospect,
I should have kept 69 Z
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,027
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.
I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.
I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
I was a bit worried about the water pump burning the wires, but I noticed the Taylors said safe up to 600 degrees. I can't imagine the water pump being much hotter than the coolant flowing through it, which doesn't get hotter than 235 degrees. Of course its different when you consider 600 degrees of convection as opposed to 600 degrees of conduction, but I'm hoping the water pump doesn't get hot enough to test any of those limits.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,027
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
I'm running MSD 8.5 wire and the MSD Pro Heat Guard. The heat guard stuff was only available in a 25 foot roll, so I just ran it the entire length of my wires, and still had some left over. All of my wire components are MSD. I also used some MSD shrink tubing around the boots, but that didn't work out too well. I got the 10.4 mm Made For You looms and they worked pretty well with the wrapped 8.5 wires.
Don't want to go too off topic but what heat shielding did you run?
I was a bit worried about the water pump burning the wires, but I noticed the Taylors said safe up to 600 degrees. I can't imagine the water pump being much hotter than the coolant flowing through it, which doesn't get hotter than 235 degrees. Of course its different when you consider 600 degrees of convection as opposed to 600 degrees of conduction, but I'm hoping the water pump doesn't get hot enough to test any of those limits.
I was a bit worried about the water pump burning the wires, but I noticed the Taylors said safe up to 600 degrees. I can't imagine the water pump being much hotter than the coolant flowing through it, which doesn't get hotter than 235 degrees. Of course its different when you consider 600 degrees of convection as opposed to 600 degrees of conduction, but I'm hoping the water pump doesn't get hot enough to test any of those limits.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/au...e_products.php
I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,027
From: Lansing, MI via Bowling Green, KY: Dalton, GA: Nashville, TN & Atlanta, GA
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