LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Spark plug wire routing with LT headers

Old Mar 11, 2008 | 09:46 PM
  #1  
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Spark plug wire routing with LT headers

There might be a write up or "well-known" after-market routing of the wires from the
distributor and up OTVC, but I can't find it. I'm mostly interested in the wires on
the passenger side. (I have a 95 Z).

I'm trying to decide the best route for the wires. If you look here, you'll see how
the wires are routed (scroll down a bit) from a fellow Kooks owner:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/show...=567173&page=5

I examined the passenger side, trying to decide the best route for those wires.
I am seriously considering re-tooling the power steering/alternator aluminum
bracket. I think a die-grinder would do the trick. A "wire slot" could be cut in the
lower portion of the bracket (under the alternator) and then another up through
the top of the bracket. It'll mean removing that bracket, but it might be worth it.

Look in here for photos and the proposed cutting of "slots" for the wires:
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay/Z28 (last 2 photos).

I thought about carrying the slot out to the end of the bracket, but thought that
might weaken the bracket.
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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You could do that, or just buy the kit that runs the wires over the valve covers.
Old Mar 11, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Old Mar 11, 2008 | 11:49 PM
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I ran mine over the valve cover. I could only get one wire between the bracket and water pump as in the above pic due to running heat shielding the entire length of my wires. I think the other three ran under the alternator and then between an AC line and block. I don't have any pics, and my car is in Kentucky.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:42 AM
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I think that's the routing you're talking about. I thought of running them like above, but there isn't a whole lot of room near the WP and I was afraid of the wires getting singed (that WP gets hot!).

As to cutting that hole, that's a lot of work to pull the whole bracket.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Green96Z


I think that's the routing you're talking about. I thought of running them like above, but there isn't a whole lot of room near the WP and I was afraid of the wires getting singed (that WP gets hot!).

As to cutting that hole, that's a lot of work to pull the whole bracket.
As all have suggested, I am prepared to do the wires OTVC, as I have
Made4You looms and new MSD wires - I would not consider attempting
to route the wires under the headers.

What I'm trying to solve is how to route the wires *from* the dist. cap
*to* the valve covers. For some reason, upon my examining the
layout of my LT1, i dont see the "room" (or route) that "ssbowtie1"
photo shows. I'll have to doubleh-check it this afternoon, but I seem
to remember that route, on mine, would not accommodate all the
wires easily, but I'll look again.

I considered "Green96Z" routing option, but it sure looks tight going
in-between the power-steering pump and A/C - the wires are going
to have to be anchored solidly between those two so a wire doesnt
stray and get "cut" by one of the pulleys.

The "default" wiring route GM chose wont work because the stock
looms arent big enough for the MSD wires to go through, which is
why I'm looking for another routing option. It's obvious, either of
"ssbowtie1" or "Green96Z" options will work, I was hoping for a route
that will allow easier access for future servicing of the wires. I've
found that *nothing* is easily accessed on the LT1 - in retrospect,
I should have kept 69 Z
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.

I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BTC
[snipped]
I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
Aren't you running 10mm wires, PLUS the heat shields? I've got the
8.5mm wires.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BTC
I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.

I ran one of my wires like ssbowtie. I was going to route them all like that, but they were too big to fit once I put the heat shielding on.
Don't want to go too off topic but what heat shielding did you run?

I was a bit worried about the water pump burning the wires, but I noticed the Taylors said safe up to 600 degrees. I can't imagine the water pump being much hotter than the coolant flowing through it, which doesn't get hotter than 235 degrees. Of course its different when you consider 600 degrees of convection as opposed to 600 degrees of conduction, but I'm hoping the water pump doesn't get hot enough to test any of those limits.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 01:25 PM
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I'm running MSD 8.5 wire and the MSD Pro Heat Guard. The heat guard stuff was only available in a 25 foot roll, so I just ran it the entire length of my wires, and still had some left over. All of my wire components are MSD. I also used some MSD shrink tubing around the boots, but that didn't work out too well. I got the 10.4 mm Made For You looms and they worked pretty well with the wrapped 8.5 wires.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ssbowtie1
Don't want to go too off topic but what heat shielding did you run?

I was a bit worried about the water pump burning the wires, but I noticed the Taylors said safe up to 600 degrees. I can't imagine the water pump being much hotter than the coolant flowing through it, which doesn't get hotter than 235 degrees. Of course its different when you consider 600 degrees of convection as opposed to 600 degrees of conduction, but I'm hoping the water pump doesn't get hot enough to test any of those limits.
You could always get some sleeves or jackets:
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/au...e_products.php
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BTC
I do think 3 of my wires are routed like GreenZ's pic, or very close to that. There was some sort of metal coolant line, or more likely an AC line, that worked perfectly for preventing the wires from getting into any of the pulleys. The line I'm referring to doesn't appear to be visible in the pic. There was room behind that line and between the block. It worked out pretty good.
The solid hose you are talking about is a power steering hose, and I ran them behind that just like stock. The only place you really have to watch the wires is near the belt tensioner. They clear the A/C and power steering pulleys good though. I used zip ties to keep them away from the tensioner.
Old Mar 12, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Green96Z
The solid hose you are talking about is a power steering hose
Thanks. It's hard to recall everything from memory, and I can't run outside and look at my car since it's 500 miles away.
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