Solid Roller + Stock heads?
The same technology that they use is available to you in $400-$500 spring sets.
Can you expalin to me how a Rev Kit does anything to control the valve more so that it doesn't beat out the seats?
FWIW the spring forces over the nose have zero to do with beating out the valve seats, in fact the RPM and loft that the valves see leads a lot more to the bounce and beating the seats than anything else.
Dude you seriously need to do a lot more digging in this area if you really want to know how to do this and make it live.
Reher Morrisons crate BBC that last a season most likely run 50°+ seats, don't use Rev Kits and last without problems and almost all of them turn 8000rpm with ease.
Bret
Can you expalin to me how a Rev Kit does anything to control the valve more so that it doesn't beat out the seats?
FWIW the spring forces over the nose have zero to do with beating out the valve seats, in fact the RPM and loft that the valves see leads a lot more to the bounce and beating the seats than anything else.
Dude you seriously need to do a lot more digging in this area if you really want to know how to do this and make it live.
Reher Morrisons crate BBC that last a season most likely run 50°+ seats, don't use Rev Kits and last without problems and almost all of them turn 8000rpm with ease.
Bret
The same technology that they use is available to you in $400-$500 spring sets.
Can you expalin to me how a Rev Kit does anything to control the valve more so that it doesn't beat out the seats?
FWIW the spring forces over the nose have zero to do with beating out the valve seats, in fact the RPM and loft that the valves see leads a lot more to the bounce and beating the seats than anything else.
Dude you seriously need to do a lot more digging in this area if you really want to know how to do this and make it live.
Reher Morrisons crate BBC that last a season most likely run 50°+ seats, don't use Rev Kits and last without problems and almost all of them turn 8000rpm with ease.
Bret
Can you expalin to me how a Rev Kit does anything to control the valve more so that it doesn't beat out the seats?
FWIW the spring forces over the nose have zero to do with beating out the valve seats, in fact the RPM and loft that the valves see leads a lot more to the bounce and beating the seats than anything else.
Dude you seriously need to do a lot more digging in this area if you really want to know how to do this and make it live.
Reher Morrisons crate BBC that last a season most likely run 50°+ seats, don't use Rev Kits and last without problems and almost all of them turn 8000rpm with ease.
Bret
As you know the kit does nothing to control the valve,but it controls the heaviest part of the train which is the lifter and keeps it in contact with the cam at all times.
If ya do a rev kit then your valve spring can be only to control the valve which makes it LESS and doesn't beat out the seats or valves. If ya break a spring or push rod ya don't ruin the cam,lifter or block,just a piston or worse.
The RM set up is probably torn down VERY OFTEN and they need to last only a race day.Try that on a road race or a street driven car or circle track sprinter.
Are the 4/500 dollar tech the same springs as PS 'cause I have heard their springs are way more expensive.
I am not saying to run the 1,000PSI springs plus a rev kit I am saying to run a kit and reduced valve spring pressure for the long haul.
As you know the kit does nothing to control the valve,but it controls the heaviest part of the train which is the lifter and keeps it in contact with the cam at all times.
If ya do a rev kit then your valve spring can be only to control the valve which makes it LESS and doesn't beat out the seats or valves. If ya break a spring or push rod ya don't ruin the cam,lifter or block,just a piston or worse.
The RM set up is probably torn down VERY OFTEN and they need to last only a race day.Try that on a road race or a street driven car or circle track sprinter.
Are the 4/500 dollar tech the same springs as PS 'cause I have heard their springs are way more expensive.
I am not saying to run the 1,000PSI springs plus a rev kit I am saying to run a kit and reduced valve spring pressure for the long haul.
If ya do a rev kit then your valve spring can be only to control the valve which makes it LESS and doesn't beat out the seats or valves. If ya break a spring or push rod ya don't ruin the cam,lifter or block,just a piston or worse.
The RM set up is probably torn down VERY OFTEN and they need to last only a race day.Try that on a road race or a street driven car or circle track sprinter.
Are the 4/500 dollar tech the same springs as PS 'cause I have heard their springs are way more expensive.
I am not saying to run the 1,000PSI springs plus a rev kit I am saying to run a kit and reduced valve spring pressure for the long haul.
As you know the kit does nothing to control the valve,but it controls the heaviest part of the train which is the lifter and keeps it in contact with the cam at all times.
If ya do a rev kit then your valve spring can be only to control the valve which makes it LESS and doesn't beat out the seats or valves. If ya break a spring or push rod ya don't ruin the cam,lifter or block,just a piston or worse.
The RM set up is probably torn down VERY OFTEN and they need to last only a race day.Try that on a road race or a street driven car or circle track sprinter.
Are the 4/500 dollar tech the same springs as PS 'cause I have heard their springs are way more expensive.
I am not saying to run the 1,000PSI springs plus a rev kit I am saying to run a kit and reduced valve spring pressure for the long haul.
If ya do a rev kit then your valve spring can be only to control the valve which makes it LESS and doesn't beat out the seats or valves. If ya break a spring or push rod ya don't ruin the cam,lifter or block,just a piston or worse.
The RM set up is probably torn down VERY OFTEN and they need to last only a race day.Try that on a road race or a street driven car or circle track sprinter.
Are the 4/500 dollar tech the same springs as PS 'cause I have heard their springs are way more expensive.
I am not saying to run the 1,000PSI springs plus a rev kit I am saying to run a kit and reduced valve spring pressure for the long haul.

No the RM stuff lasts ALL SEASON LONG with just lash adjustments.
If you can't keep your lifter in control than you need better pushrods or lighter lifters. All the stuff is out there for long term durabiltiy, but the problem is it ain't cheap and no cheap Rev Kit is going to fix that.
The $400-$500 springs are the mass produced springs using very high grades of steel wire. Believe me they will work for whatever you are having a problem with.
Bret

No the RM stuff lasts ALL SEASON LONG with just lash adjustments.
If you can't keep your lifter in control than you need better pushrods or lighter lifters. All the stuff is out there for long term durabiltiy, but the problem is it ain't cheap and no cheap Rev Kit is going to fix that.
The $400-$500 springs are the mass produced springs using very high grades of steel wire. Believe me they will work for whatever you are having a problem with.
Bret
I would rather have the lifter with it's own spring for safety and adjust the valve springs as necessary. That way if something breaks on the valve end it won't destroy the center part of the engine,just the one hole.
Ya might come out with a lesser total spring pressure also.
Didn't say it couldn't be done with valve springs but if something happens to a retainer,spring,valve stem or keepers you will replace the block VS sleeving a hole if ya get lucky.
Just my preference.Have done several like that and it worked fine and the cost was a lot less.
Like I said most on this board don't need a rev kit or $500.00 springs.
call allan at futral motorsports. Terry(who use to work at cam motion) works with him now and they can spec you out a cam. They also use cam motion to grind their cams but they deal more with the ls1/lt1 stuff than cam motion does.



Or do I just need to call comp cams?