I have SLP single cat headers for a 93 and the headers are on but the y-pipe doesnt fit. The y-pipe is about half of an inch short. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem. The heads have been milled .010" but i done see how that should be a problem. This is whats stopping me from starting the car. I got them in january so i hope SLP takes care of it. I have been looking around on the board and have seen some bad stories about SLP. After all of the headaches of putting these in I should have just went with lts.


Brad

 

here is a pic of the y pipe. The other side is bolted up and flush.

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/3f12f...UavE_AC9CAgs94


Brad

 

Your pick doesn't work for me at least. Not many people have 93's and i don't know all the suttle differences. It sounds like you have one side bolted up already. What you should have done is start all 4 bolts just a couple turns, it's much easier to get the second side to start if it's still loose. Once you have all started then you begin to snug them up alternating between side. Just like tightening the lugs on a wheel. Really you sould torque anything you work on evenly like that. Sorry if you already did that and I'm stating the obvious, but like i said your pic doesn't work so i don't know what else to say.

 

All four bolts wont start at the same time the alignment is that far off. I started the first two finger tight and they are tightended evenly. I will try posting the link again . http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/3f12f295_d63/bc/Yahoo!+Photo+Album/brad+pic+car+1+003.jpg?pfDixE_A72WSgs94

 

mine was bent too. i think it was dropped during shipment i couldnt get it to fit without a pipe bender so i took it to the exhaust shop where i had to have an S-pipe fabbed up anyway. he bent the long elbow part off the driver side header instead of spreading the y-pipe where it joins together so now the damn thing leaks a little on the drivers side.

 

How much did the s pipe end up costing?

 

i really dont remember. he fixed the y-pipe, made the S-pipe and put my catback back on all in one bill but it wasnt too bad. since i have a 97 its dual cats so my stock y-pipe already had a sort of S bend in it so i cut that off and he just used that instead of trying to make the bend himself. now you have a 94 so there should have been an S-pipe already on your catback.

 

Your right, there should be. I bought the 2OTL used from a dual car car. I have a flanged cat/orp setup though that was going to require some custom fabbing to hook up anyways so thats why i wasn't worried when i got the dual cat catback. It's hooked up now with a 3" spipe with regular ole crushed to crap bends in it. I'm working on getting the 3" mandrel elbows put in. I'm considering getting another ORP made with a 3" bullet muffler in it to cut down on the rasp without the cat. The only decent shop around here willing to touch it wanted 75 bucks minimum because i didn't buy the bends from them (even though they don't sell them). If i buy the bullet from them, get my tires mounted, and the spiipe done at once it will cut into that 75 dollar minimum.

 

I couldn't get your pictures, but if the y pipe doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. I had the same problem with the y pipe for my Hooker shorties (you can see a pic in my sig). I had to cut it and have it spliced back together at the muffler shop. Not a big deal, really.
Bolting it together loosely and then tightening up the bolts will stress bolts and bolt holes in the heads and eventually you will have leaks or worse.

 

I cant figure out what im doing wrong posting pics, but if anyone wants to see what im talking about i could email them to you.

Slp just told me to do what you said not to do Bud. I was thinking it was a bad idea. Hre are there exact words: "You mentioned the headers are installed, make sure they are on the heads loosely! make sure the y-pipe is also loose, not even snug. now you will have some flexibility to work with. the last thing you do is start tightening up all the bolt a little bit while going back to each one until they are seat correctly to the gaskets and they line up properly, and to the y-pipe too!"

Just to try it out I went and loosened all the bolts for the headers. Then I moved the header so I could get all the bolts started for the y pipe. I didnt try to even tighten the header bolts because there was about an 1/8" gap at the top of the flange to the head. that looked like to much gap to be drawing up.

Btw this pissed me off alot cause the stage 8 c-clips are a pain in the *** to take off. Everything seems to fall down into the motor mount tower.

I was also told by t-byrne that if i were to send somthing back to slp for repair i would have to pay all of the shipping.

Brad

 

If you are using 3/4 inch header bolts, you have about 3/8 of an inch of the bolt in your head. That is probably 4 or 5 threads in an aluminum head. I would not care to put a lot of stress on that.
When my neighbor who manages a muffler shop saw the poor fit of my y pipe, he said to cut it. Otherwise he said I would always be fighting exhaust leaks or worse. At the muffler shop they spliced it back together, no problem.
If you return it you can't be sure the replacement will be any better.
As far as the clips, they become easier with practice. Just don't put them on until you're done.