So has anyone ever used the bolts and gaskets in this kit and NOT had a problem?

I am still undecided, but am leaning towards the Percys like 96 WS6 just posted.

Or should I drill the extra hole in my brand new stock manifold gaskets and try that?

Sealant or no sealant?

No leaks before the O2 is a MUST. That is the ORIGINAL problem I am trying to fixed. Never even planned headers til the broken bolt

Thanks
Sean

 

Couple things come into play here.

Yes their gaskets work, but people say they are a PITA because they are individual to the ports and not 1/side.

You have a 94 right? Do you want to keep your emmisions? The EGR extender hose is ~30 bucks if you get it seperate from the kit. Someone told me they stretched out their hose and just turned it down and bolted it. Mine definitly didn't reach even with stretching it to the max. The kit also includes some heat shielding for the sparkplug wires and an adapter hose for the AIR hookup.

Stock manifold gaskets: I believe the opening on those is smaller then the opening on the heads and definitly wouldn't help flow. The openings looked tiny on them, but if they ARE bigger then the ports on the heads i don't see why not. I used mr. gasket copperseal first which didn't work out. There was a ring of raised copper designed to crush down and seal when you tightened up the bolts. Because this overlapped with the port in some places, and header flange in others, it 'kinked' if you will and required excessive tightening to get it close to sealing. It still leaked a small amount no matter what. I'm not sure if the percy's are flat, or if they also incorperate a small raised crush area which may or not line up with your flange everywhere like it should. Fel-Prop ?1406? did the trick and was much cheaper then the copperseals.

Sealant, what sealant???

 

Thanks for the info.

I did get the kit so I am good to go on the EGR and heat shielding. I was thinking the metal (stock) maybe more durable than the individual ones. I just lined them both up on the header (not head) and the stock does not have smaller openings. The SLP ones look a little restrictive on the bottom of the port though

I never heard of sealant here either until I did a search before my post here. Couple people said they put a thin layer of high temp something.

The Felpros are under consideration too. But seems hit or miss for people on previous threads.

Sean

On a side note- Does the provided heat shielding need to be slipped on the wire from the Opti end (I hope not)?

 

The opening on the header is larger then the opening on the head. So even if they are a lil smaller then the header opening, if they are larger then the exhaust port on the head it's fine.

Hi temp RTV. IMHO, no no no. When you have a tupperware container do you put syran wrap over the top and then try to jam the lid on? It's one or the other. let them work as they are designed. Although maybe those people did get their headers to seal with both, they probably would have been fine with just the gasket. This is along the same lines as using rtv on an electric waterpump that has been machined for an o ring. I'd take a well machined oring seal anyday over rtv. Yet people slop theirs up with rtv reducing the effectiveness of the oring because the rtv creates a gap between the faces. All they are doing is making a mess. Now if the gasket called for a very thin layer or if a gasket always leaked at the same spot because of an imperfection on the head, then i could understand a very thin layer of rtv as a band aid. Sorry about the rant

I would think the heat sheiding would need to be slipped on like that. I used cheap spectre heat shielding because i didn't get that kit so i'm not really sure. I think the taylor fire$leeve$ may be large enough to slip over the plug end.