If I remember right you can take it off at the steering rack and slide it out of the way.You have to spread the clamp a little and and use a long punch or screwdriver and hammer and tap it off the rack. It has splines on it and is keyed to go back only one way.Make sure the battery is disconnect first.And make sure that the steering colum is locked after it is disconnected.

 

Save yourself the extra work and headaches and follow my recommendation here. First, your steering shaft can stay where it is, the driver's header will go in from the bottom without touching the shaft. I do recommend that you remove the oil filter, it's no big deal here, oil up the seal again and reinstall it later or spend a couple bucks and get a new one. If you look closely you will notice a metal rail that holds the #7 wire along the block just below the head, near the back there is a bolt that holds it in place AWA a bolt towards the frt. Loosen the bolt at the frt and remove the bolt at the back. Now when you try to install the header up the bracket may be in the way. Just pivot the back of it up out of the way and get the header in position then gently bent it around the header and back into position and reinstall the bolt. Make sure to tighten the bolt at the frt. too.

I did the pass. side from below also, there's tons of room there. I don't see how it would go in from the top but if someone got them in that way, all the more to ya.

Now the heater hose thing. Yes, one of your heater hoses will be touching the header, nothing you can do about that unless you reroute it or here's another idea.

Get yourself some header wrap, specifically this stuff. It's called "cool it" made by thermo tec. Summit sells this stuff. I believe it comes in a 25' roll and is about 3" wide. Where the header touches the hose, wrap it up with this stuff and wrap the hose also. 3 to 4 times around the hose and header area should be good. Secure it with hose clamps. You can even stick a couple pieces of this stuff between the insulated hose and insulated header tube. This will increase the distance between the hose and the tube. With coated headers (which mine are) you can actually put your finger on the header where the wrap is and hold it there for a bit and your finger will feel warm but not hot enough that it'll burn you, it works that well. Your hose will not burn through. My install was done 3 years ago and the wrap is still there and the hose is good no signs of being torched.

Don't worry about other people's "claims" that these headers don't work or make less power. Fact is if you install them properly they will perform as well or better than other shorty headers out there. My mods are in my sig and my Formula dynos 305hp/320torque @ the wheels. The car runs the 1/4 in the 13.20 range @ almost 105mph. It's squeaky clean when emission time comes around and cruising nicely on the highway I can knock down 30+ mpg. My 60 ft. still sucks being a 2.0 on DR's but with the Spohn TA that I installed not too long ago I plan to shoot for high 12's when the warmer weather returns in the spring.

Take your time with the install and good luck.

Tony

Oh, as an added note I recently did a plug change on the car, headers and ex. pipes in place, only had to move the starter though. It was interesting but no big deal.

 

If you undo your tranny mount and tq arm mount you will be able to rock the motor on its mounts and avoid taking off the steering linkage. Gives you a little bit more room to force them up in there.

 

Cman:

Alrighty, I'll try putting it in without messing with the steering linkage and see what happends.

PEPPER