Ok, I have my LE2 kit sitting out in my garage right now and I can't decide whether or not I should install this thing on my own. I really would rather save the money and do it myself, but the one thing definately holding me back is the cam. I don't know anything about working with the camshaft and degreeing it and whatever else goes into it. So I'm asking for some advice or maybe a run down on what I need to do and what I need to buy to get it running correctly on my own.
Thanks a lot

 

If you have someone with experience that will work with you and will
be available to assist as needed, I would do it. Otherwise have it done
professionally. I've been working on cars since my 68 GTO (bought it in 79)
at the component level (no internal engine, trans, rear end work) and found
the cam replacement in my 97 TA to be fairly complicated and time consuming.
Lots of parts to remove and keep track of and some fine touches needed
on reassembly to be sure things work correctly.

If you decide to try it, be sure and make use of the shoebox site and get
a factory service manual if you do not already have one. Topic specific
searches here will also be very helpful.

 

I agree.

There are tons of cam installation guides out there. Check Brent Franker's site, which I don't have a link for right now. If you're meticulous, patient, and somewhat mechanically inclined, I'd say you could do it. I just don't trust others working on my car.

 

go to shoebox.com

 

I agree that there is plenty of documentation to guide you on your way.

 

I just read through shoeboxes guides. I'm not too worried about all the parts, even though that will be a huge pain. I have replaced the opti on my car before and thats quite a job, not quite as big as this, but a lot of the same parts are removed.

My main concern is having the car run right afterwards. Don't you have to degree it or do anything with the timing? I didn't see anything about it on shoeboxes site. It seemed to be more of just "out with the old, in with the new" type of job. I've seen degreeing kits and such online but never really thought of buying one, do I need to do anything like that?

Thanks for the help so far

 

Degreeing a cam is just to make sure it was manufactured to the correct specs. It is a good idea, but not necessary.

 

Oh, ok. So I can slide the cam in like shoeboxes site says and with any luck, it should be good to go.
Well, you guys are definately swaying me into doing this myself.

 

Could not disagree more, you need to ensure the cam is ground correctly. Degreeing the cam eliminates a big "what if" variable just encase the engine does not run right after the install.

If things are not running right, one of the first thing the cam grinder rep or any knowledgable person will ask is if you degreed the cam and what the results were.

 

No, I understand that, and was just giving a brief description of what degreeing a cam is (seemed like he had no clue). I was more stating that it's not necessary for the cam install to 'work'. I do agree that it should be done. I don't think I've ever heard of a case where the car wouldn't run, just not perform up to par.

 

You're right, I was completely lost about what degreeing was. Is it a complicated process? If it's something I can do with relative ease, then I'd like to eliminate that "what if" factor mentioned.

I'd really like to do this myself... I just got quoted at about 1800$!!! for the head/cam intake swap

 

There is really no degreeing an LT1 cam if you are using a stock or
extreme duty timing set. As said before, you are just verifying that
the cam is ground correctly. I attempted to check mine durng the
install, bought a degree wheel, already had a dial indicator on a
magnetic base, and never did feel like I could tell +-1*. It was sort
of frustrating to not be able to know exactly where it was. In the
end all I can say is it's within 2* of spec. It may have been more
productive if I had a helper.

 

I felt the same way you did initially. I found a friend with experience to come watch. You can probably find a member near you to come over for beer and munchies to supervise, if you don't know anybody. I also searched and read this site for literally dozens of hours before I started the project.

As for keeping track of all the parts, I got a few boxes of various ziplock bags and some seedling planter trays. You know, plastic trays with about 20 4' square bins in them. I labelled all the bags (silver sharpies write on about anything) with what the fasteners held on or where the parts came from, and numbered the bags in order of disassembly. Then I put them in the bins in order, to make the right bag easier to find later. I labelled the bins, too, in case they got tipped over or the bag labels got smeared.

I put a tag on every electrical connector I pulled, with more pics of the wire routings.

I also kept a list of what order I disassembled everything. Every significant part that came off got a photo, too, just incase I missed something. During reassembly I had my laptop with all the pics for easy reference. In the course of a full engine/trans/axle job, I had to use the pics about 20 times and only got confused a couple of times, then I resorted to the $120 ish factory manual. It all worked out. If you can build an expert level plastic model, or a shed kit, you should be able to do this.

 

I agree with staying organized, and say go for it. I say take pictures, and expect longer downtime being your going to be exploring compared to knowing how everything comes off.

Make sure you get a everything you need list going, that way there are no interruptions. (tools, gaskets ect)

Like mentioned invite some body experienced to help you when needed.

You will feel like a better person knowing you did it yourself.

 

I've been reading up on the procedure online and looking through my haynes manual as well. I've also been posting up questions here. I have a plan similar to JP95ZM6 mentioned to carry out the project. I'm looking forward to getting started and can't wait til I get it finished. It will be so much more rewarding knowing that I did this myself (especially knowing I saved $1800 or more)
Thanks a lot guys