I'm in the middle of my cam install, and I just bolted on the Cloyes timing set. The crank sprocket is on as far as it will go, and lines up perfectly with the cam sprocket. No problems there.

I put on the timing cover, clearance it a little for the chain on the inside, and install the crank hub. BUT!

The crank hub won't fit all the way into the timing cover, and it is bottoming out on the crank sprocket. It will NOT go in any further, and needs to go in almost half an inch more!

I didn't get a chance to compare, but is the Cloyes sprocket thicker than the factory one? How come I see a lot of guys with 95s running the Cloyes with no problem, and mine decides to mess with my head.

Can I use the shorter hub from a 96+ car? How much shorter are they? I'm in a HUGE hurry, so any help you guys can offer is great. Thanks.

 

I ended up using my 97 hub when I did mine. The Cloyes gear is slightly thicker than the stock gears, but they are back cut so they do not stick out any further than the stock ones (Cloyes also makes the stock gears that GM used on the LT1). I had the same problem with the hub not going on all the way and I finally figured out that you cannot put it on with a piece of all thread like many people have said. There is a special hub installation tool that you have to use. I ended up taking my car to a friend's shop and having him put the hub on.

Oh yeah, the 96-97 hub is 0.093" shorter than the 93-95 hub due to the relutor ring that was used.

 

When your hub wouldn't go on, how much was left? I still had about 1/2" to go and it would not budge at all.

Do you know if I can purchase this "special" hub install tool from anywhere? I'm totally jammed up right now, it's retarded.

 

I think my friend got it from either Snap on or Mac tools, but he said they were pricy.

Mine was freaky, I could get the accessory belt to line up pretty close, the belt would work but would slowly eat off one of the ribs and start to really move off the pulleys at high RPM. My blower belt on the other hand was off so bad that the belt would walk off the pulley and begin shredding at idle.

 

Finally going internal, Joe?

Crank hub installation tools are fairly expensive (~$60-70). You might try going to someplace like O'Reilly's -- you can usually rent tools (pay full price, but get a refund when you return it).

Other than that, I have no advice on the matter. Good luck to ya.


Mine got pretty tight down towards the bottom, but it never really felt like it was bottoming-out. I was more worried about the bolt breaking than anything. I didn't need to use a hub install tool either -- just used different sized bolts to pull it on (though not recommended, it worked flawlessly). I think it helped to oil the crank snout too...

 

I believe this is it...

http://www.mactools.com/ProductDetai...ItemNum=TP1330

Again, not cheap.

 

A propane torch for a few minutes on the hub and she slips right on for me.

If you don't have a torch use a oven, just make sure you remove any oil from the hub it will stink up the place.

I just can't see myself spending that type of money on a installation tool where there are other way's of doing it.

 

What the heck is the difference in a piece of all-thread and an installation tool? They do the same thing.

 

If I remember right, my crank hub didn't go in all the way either. We just continued with it and all the accessories lined up at the end.

 

About $70?



No really, it's not that different. But, instead of using just washers and a nut, the tools typically come with a thrust bearing, so there is less binding and more of that energy is directed towards the hub. It might free up just enough force for him to get it on there. I figure if the specialized tool can't get it, then something truly is wrong..

Then again, we dont know what RamAir95 has been using to install his hub.


I like Ken's torch idea. That'd probably help a lot -- if you can get it hot enough...