Okay..short version. Car was actin up (stutter really bad under any acceleration). Found out the Ignition wires (#2 and #8) were sliced up pretty badly AND the Opti had mad moisture in it. Ripped it all apart..replaced the Opti and plug wires and now thats where Im at....

-After everything was hooked back up (yes the Opti is on right)..I go to turn it over and it tries..but then after about 2 seconds it makes a loud POP and smoke is coming from inside the block out of the butterflies on the Throttle Body. I try again..again it makes the POP noise (loud..and only once each time) then the smoke again. Finally, I fix some of the ignition wires that were mixed up (store brands blow..not numbered for convenience lol)

-Now (on like the third/fourth attempt to start it) It goes to turn over, makes the POP noise yet again. I turn the ignition off..go to turn it back on and Ive got all power..dash lights up and everything..I even hear the fuel pump working..once I click it over to the 'ignition' to start the car (after pushing in clutch) ALL power just goes out. Then..after a few minutes..I get some power back when I put it in the ignition position..radio works..fuel pumps goes..then when I attempt to crank it over before it even tries to start the engine, all my power goes away AGAIN. I have NO IDEA what is causing this. Let alone my POPPING noise from the engine.

-I did have the fuel rails off and all the wiring harness unhooked when I changed out the opti and stuff. But nothing fell in the engine as far as I know. This almost seems to be like a mis-firing kinda pop..but then doesnt allow the engine to completely fire up. So I think whatever is causing this engine problem..is telling my computer to turn off for safe reasons..maybe??

-If ANYONE can help me Id very much so appreciate it..No one replied before..and I honestly dont think the problem is electrical..I think thats part of the PCM telling my car to not start because it detects an engine malfunction. ANY input would be appreciated..I have not had my car running for months now and it snowed last night..I just want to hear her purr again! LOL
Thanks guys..sorry its so long...Derek

 

Let's look at a couple of things that occured or are occuring.

It ran (all be it crappy) before you put the new opti and wires on.

Then it kept popping and not starting when you tried it several times.

Now it won't even crank.



Don't see why you removed the fuel rails AND the wiring but you must have your reasons.

Well it sounds like you have some plug wires crossed. Then you ran the battery down from cranking it so many times. Double check your wiring at the plugs for correct routing and proper connections then jump it from another battery. If it does not start, check for spark. Check every harness you unplugged for bent pins or the like

 

[QUOTE=1Qwik94Z] Finally, I fix some of the ignition wires that were mixed up (store brands blow..not numbered for convenience



QUOTE]


My first guess would be to double... or triple check that the plug wires are all on in the correct order.

 

Try Changing the ICM, It worked wonders for me. My car would just pop and die whenever I gave the car alot of gas of ran the car for over 10 mins at low throttle.

 

thanks for the replies guys..Im hoping I just totally mixed up the passenger side plug wires still.
The reason I took off the fuel rails and stuff is because I detailed the engine since it was under the knife for a while anyways. Then it sat with everything undone for about two months. When I put the plugs/wires and Opti back on..it turned over enough for me to know atleast the Opti was okay. So..I put everything else back on..coolant back in...etcetera etcetera..I have enough experience taking an LT1 apart to know what needs to be removed when working on what . The only thing that sux is seeing which plug wires go to which Opti port. I can follow the wires from the spark plug down to the wire loom..but from there..its too hard to tell...id have to remove everything again its so tight in there. Im just gonna have to remove what I have to I guess and start over with those wires.

My main question is..say for instance it is the routing of my ignition wires..it does that pop once..then wont turn over..now the juice disappears completely. I have a good battery..there IS still almost FULL juice in it..its the computer system that shuts down all the way..not the battery. Trust me..if I let the car sit for a few minutes...everything works for however long I feel like letting it work (radio etc)..but AS SOON AS I turn the ignition position to 'start' the car..it all goes out. This must be some system saftey thing our PCMs have..because if it were a dead battery, it wouldnt give me full operations a few minutes later..Thanks for the replies guys..keep em coming if you've experienced this too..Im gonna do the plug wires again when I get the chance. Gotta go VOTE and work today..Ill do it tomorrow.
Thanks again guys,
Derek