Ok so I got in on the scanmaster GP and installed it. Seems to be pretty cool. I understand most of the self explanitory stuff. I was wondering how I know if my o2 sensors are good? Also under WOT I get up to 9.0 of retard, not good, right? I already saw that link explaining how to use it. Maybe I'm dumb, just don't get it. -Brad

 

The numbers the move the whole time while ur driving are your 02's...they should mover from the 100's-the 900's...also if you go to the the O@ readings on the scanmaster itself..they should also move from 110-900...and also there is 1 more reading...RBL & LBL..that tells you how much fuel going to each side..Should be the same or pretty damn close...if NOT u have a BAD 02. Hope this helps.

Bush

 

On cold start your O2 sensors are at 450mV, as they warm up the readings should bounce between 0mV and 999mV. Good O2 sensors will rapidly bounce when the engine is warmed up and you're cruising. At WOT your O2 sensors should read 850+ and on deceleration your O2 sensors should read near 0.

9 degrees of knock retard will kill your power. You need to determine if it's real or false knock. I suggest you run some 100 octane fuel (add when the tank is near empty so you don't dilute it) and recheck you knock. If it goes away, it's true knock that you need to fix; if it doesn't go away, it's false knock (probably caused by your headers) and you can modify your knock sensor circuit to eliminate the timing retard.

 

I already have a lt4 knock module and I didn't feel much power improvment. If I'm getting false knock, how do I modify my knock sensor circuit to eliminate the timing retard? -Brad

 

Go to Brett Fraker's web page, you'll find a link for the desensing circuit. I also ran a LT4 knock module which didn't help. After I proved it was false knock, I decided to completely bypass my knock sensor circuit. You run a risk if you do this but I only use race gas at the track and have verified my AFR on the dyno.