Alright, this summer I want to rebuild my car so it will be more reliable(and faster hehe). I was looking around summit and this interested me:

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

Is Federal Mogul a reputable company? I just want it to be as reliable/powerful as a near new LT1. I'd like to do an intake, exhaust, eventually cam, ported heads, and like a 75hp shot of nitrous over a span of like 2-3 years. Will this rebuild kit help me make my engine more tolerant of the abuse i plan to give it? I know it costs about $530, but what should I expect to pay for labor? Or do you suppose a 16 year old kid could tackle it himself with the instructions and help of a friend that graduated from UTI?

 

In that kit, the pistons, rings, and bearings are all stock sizes. If you're rebuilding a 192k engine, the block will need boring, align honing, decking, etc... basically a lot of machining work (neccesitating non-stock piston, ring, and bearing sizes) not to mention a good shop with the right equipment. Oh yeah, I forgot - plenty of $ for the new rotating assembly (crank, rods pistons) that you'll need. Basically, at 192K, in most cases (with typical use/abuse), all of your internal engine components will probably be nearing end-of-life.

If you're planning on the engine having future performance mods, then you'll want to build a good strong shortblock to put that stuff on and that costs money. Figure up to $2k or so (not sure on US prices ) for just the rotating assembly, not including machining and assembly.

I've been there - done that as far as rebuilding/building-up a high mileage LT1 is concerned. I'm happy with the end result, but it wasn't cheap - certainly not something I could have afforded (way back) when I was 16

I'm not trying to scare you away... just warning you about what's involved.

 

Looks alright to me, has forged pistons. Haven't had experience with this kit but I'm sure even if you get greedy with the N2o and do a 125-150, she should hold. Don't order the kit till your machine shop checks the block. Need to know if you can keep her stock, or if you have to go 355 or something of the sort. The price hmm pick a reasonable price then double it, that might give you a cushion. So when you get started and the surprises start happening, you'll be prepared. I'm not sure others could help more, but 2000 for this kit, a gasket set, and machine work. It could be less and it could be more and thats if you do all the work yourself, except for the short block assembly.

I recommend you let a reputable shop do the short block assembly, but you and a friend could do the rest if you have a nice tool collection. Oh and previous experience with bloody knuckles and arms is a must lol

And the next thing you'll desire to know is my opinion, or someones opinion on how to remove the engine. I'll give my 2 cents and someone shall give theirs.

I have tore everything down and removed from the top, dropped one out the bottom placing the k member on a jack to slide it out, and the latest one was out the bottom onto a furniture cart from harbor freight for $20 at the time. Just used an engine hoist from the top to lower the whole assembly without tires down onto the cart, then it slid right out. Of course I had to raise the body up a few feet in the air, but theres an entire write up on this so I won't go into detail. I loved the last one it came out so easily in my opinion.

While at the machine shop if your worried about the stock rotating assembly have them check it get their opinion. crank will need to be polished unless you've spun a bearing. Then they need to see if it's able to be salvaged.Then throw in some ARP hardware and you should be good to go.

You might be lucky like me, I have a 215000 mile lt1 with a tiny bit of blowby sitting in my garage getting the tear down. Not much machine work.

Theres lots of conflicting info on the net we can all tell you different things, but in the end when you have it apart at the machine shop. You'll have your final answer.

Most valuable thing is to find a good shop to do it.

 

You can keep the stock crank and rods. The crank will need to be ground and balanced and the rods resized and shotpeened. With ARP bolts the bottom end will be pretty strong, enough for what you want to do with it. I would also have the block studded too for a little extra insurance. Also go to www.eportworks.com. Lloyd does great work on heads, and his heads/cam combos are a great value.

Jason

 

Just a suggestion, but why not just save the hassle and buy another lower milege stock shortblock for $300-400 and just put heads/cam or cam (or whatever you want to do to go faster) on that.

It would be alot cheaper, easier, and less downtime.

Just my opinion
Jason

 

I agree. Stock shortblocks can be had pretty cheap. However, make sure you buy from someone you (or many other people) trust. I'd buy a used stock shortblock 10x over before I bought a used strocker/rebuilt shortblock.

Ryan

 

where could i find LT1 shortblocks? i figured that would cost like $3000 or so?

 

I have 2 good shortblocks in my garage if you are interested.

Drop me an email at jhsformula@aol.com
Thanks, Jason

 

Go to a reputable local machine shop and they can fix you up, it's cheaper than people are letting on, your crank and rods will be fine, the crank may need to be turned 10/10, those PM rods are pretty strong with ARP bolts, but you can get some forged I-beams for under $300 if you are worried about it. I would not use federal mogul pistons, they are extreamly heavy, and the lt1 pistons stock are known to be light, thats where the revs and power come from...some $250 KB hyper pistons can take a 75 shot of nos no problem if you set up the ring gap correctly. A good way to save money at the machine shop, is to get the motor as bare as possible, so that you dont need to pay them to disassemble it.

 

you should be able to reuse most parts if they all come out good in the grinder. kudos to the lt1 for making it this far...almost 200k

 

are call golen engines a lt 355 is $2,200 in my opion is cheap.
steven gsx@hotmail.com
1971 buick gsx stage 1 11.28
1995 z28 12.88

 

thanks, i checked out their website and didn't see any 355s, but i did see some nice 383 shortblocks and in particular a 350 longblock rated at 360hp for $3700. i think maybe ill save up for a while and hope i dont need any repairs before next summer otherwise ill replace and freshen up parts as i go. thanks for the reference though!

 

sorry i meant to say short block,then get loyd to do your heads and cam .i think it is cheaper .

 

thanks for the suggestions! I think if I can find a decently priced LT1 short block, I'll buy a head/cam package from lloyd, a CAI, and a catback. Or could those two things wait?