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RW Dyno numbers: 370ci LT4, AFR 210 Elims, Dry sump
I've been working on gradually building up a new engine over the past year or so. First I wanted to thank you guys for the great information as well as some great deals on parts :) . Hopefully this info will be helpful to someone.
It's finally done and I just got the computer tuned a couple days ago. Here are the details: Engine specs: Shortblock LT1 / 4 small block bore: 4.03" (JE pistons) Stroke 3.625" (Cola forged) 6.0" rods (Compstar) Static compression 10.96:1 Comp Cams Hydraulic roller cam, specs at .05" lift: Intake duration 230, .622 valve lift Exhaust duration 236, .624 valve lift Lobe separation: 112.0 Installed 108.0 intake center line Caddy racing lifters Oil system: Johnson's 4 stage dry sump pump (3 sunction stages all in the pan) Hamburgers 3 stage dry sump pan with extra scavenge fitting/tube added custom oil tank Canton oil thermostat and earls cooler Intake: Ported LT4 42lb injectors 58mm throttlebody Heads: AFR 210cc LT4 Eliminators, competition ported Other: Trans: ZF6 Clutch: Carolina stage 3 Exotic Muscle headers 1-3/4" primaries Corsa 2-1/2" exhaust with Carsound 3" Cats Delteq ignition Meziere Electric water pump 180* Thermostat The motor was built for a combination of street and road racing (HPDEs). Shortblock built and cam selection by Midwest engine tech in Mokena, IL. top-end, dry sump, etc was done by me. My HP goals were ~500HP at the crank (~425 RWHP). Overall I'm very pleased with the result, particularly given the 'unknowns' of the AFR Eliminator heads and the practicality of fitting a dry sump system into a street C4 while retaining all accessories (AC, cruise, traction control, etc). That being said, getting it all in there was a massive pain in the butt. Among many other things I had to fab up new solid motor mounts which move the motor 1/4" back to clear the drive mandrel and also clear the oil fittings on the passenger side. No frame or structural mods were made, though. Here are the results: RWHP Dyno graph: http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...Final dyno.JPG Engine during assembly showing location of dry sump pump and drive mandrel (you can also see the tank pre-installation in the lower left: http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...e assembly.JPG Oil tank installed in factory battery location (battery is in the rear storage compartment): http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...s/Oil Tank.JPG Engine from driver's side: http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...river side.JPG Engine from passenger side: http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows... pass side.JPG Dry sump tank breather can and oil pump (it's down there somewhere): http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...s/oil pump.JPG Head Flow numbers (no intake fixture): Lift 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.55 0.6 0.65 AFR Intake 71.2 138.7 202.2 249.9 281.5 286.3 281.2 276.8 AFR Exhaust 62.6 113.9 167.4 197.5 212.2 215.9 217.8 220.3 Here's an ENGINE dyno graph that we did to break in the motor and do a mechanical check. It was run with an LT1 carb manifold as the shop didn't have an FI controller. Open headers, no accessories: http://home.comcast.net/~markbychows...eDynoGraph.JPG |
Very stout numbers, good luck with the car!
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Very nice combinations of parts. look slike it worked out well.
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Car put out impressive numbers good job! I'm curious doesn't a vette 6 speed and rear eat up more than a T56 and a 10 bolt or no?
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Originally Posted by hsyr
(Post 5459768)
Car put out impressive numbers good job! I'm curious doesn't a vette 6 speed and rear eat up more than a T56 and a 10 bolt or no?
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Nice numbers
Kory |
Nice build, with impressive results. Congrats.
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Where did you get the valve covers, I'd like to use a stud girdle like that.
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Nice work. It paid off for you. Enjoy it. :)
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very outstandingly excellent. :yes:
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Very nice results, what valvetrain are you using??? Looks like your using the 3100 comp lobes. Looks like those Eliminator AFR heads work pretty good.
Where the flow numbers come from?? |
Thanks very much for the kind comments, guys!
to answer your questions: I'm curious doesn't a vette 6 speed and rear eat up more than a T56 and a 10 bolt or no? It has a dana 44 with 3:73's. I'm running synthetic in both the diff and trans, but not sure how much that helps. I honestly have no clue if there's much of a difference in drivetrain loss between the two, though. Where did you get the valve covers, I'd like to use a stud girdle like that. It's a Melrose racing setup which includes the valve covers and stud girdle. I actually got the setup used off the board for $250. The only problem is that since the AFR heads have slightly different stud position from stock heads, I had to bend the valve cover mounting studs slightly (minor, though). I like the setup, and they clear the alternator which was the big trick. what valvetrain are you using? All of the hardware that came standard with the AFR heads (2.08 / 1.60 10mm valves) except we swapped the springs for Comp Cams 953's. Trickflow 7.1" pushrods, Crane gold 1.60 rockers, GM Caddilac Racing lifters. I'd like to run it up a little past 7K to see how the valvetrain keeps up. Not going to make any more power, but good to know if I can hold it in gear longer if I need to! |
Badass!
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Is this by chance a 55mm camshaft? :D I still can't get over the lift for the duration.
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Originally Posted by 1989TransAm
(Post 5461143)
Is this by chance a 55mm camshaft? :D I still can't get over the lift for the duration.
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