LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Rust on crank bearing

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Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:43 AM
  #1  
BLUETOPTA's Avatar
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Rust on crank bearing

I have some rust patches building up in the #1 conecting rod bearing on the crank. The motor was in the car that sat outside apart for half the winter. The # 1 rod and piston were the only ones out of the block. I think its done for . I doubt it would be a good idea to try to remove this rust.

What do you guys think?
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:44 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

Try some oil and a rough cloth (like a wash cloth). If there is any pitting, you have a problem.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:47 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

20 gritt sand paper









jk
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:49 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

yeah i agree with shoebox. If it is just surface rust, no problem. If it has pitted at all replace it. If it is already apart, why not just replace the bearings anyways? They don't cost much.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 09:50 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

Originally Posted by TransAm396
20 gritt sand paper

jk
That should take care of that rust.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

The rust is on the crank bearing part. I bought a new bearing for the conecting rod. I went at it with a rag and some hot water and the rust did not come off. It apears to be surface rust. there are a few spots on the bearing like this. there rest of it apears fine. The engine is still in the car. I even tried with my nail to get the rust off and it is still there.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

maybe i'm not understanding. You have a rod disconnected from the crank. The crank is still bolted to the block. You have new bearings for that rod that you are going to install. The rust is on the rod journal on the crank. Right? Or the crank is removed and you have rust on the main journal on the crank or on the main bearings?
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

the # 1 rod is disconected from the crank. The crank is still in the block, wich is still in the car. I have a new bearing part for that connecting rod. The bearing part on the crank where that rod goes, there are a few patches of rust.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:09 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

ohhh....the rod journal. Try some fine grit sand paper (400 and up) and use some wd-40 to cut it with. If it is surface rust it should come off. Don't use water. That will probably do more harm that good.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

It Wont Work...........................

Pull The Engine Re Grind The Crank And Put All New Bearing In!!!

If You Put It Back Togeter After Siting Outside With No Pan And Intake For A Half A Year I Will Without A Doubt Tell You That It Will Be Very Short Lived.

Engines Dont Like Dirt. And They Dont Like Rusted Bearings
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:20 AM
  #11  
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

not a year and a half, more like 2 months
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:20 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

True, but if it is a little bit of surface rust on the journal and no place else, it should work fine. Besides, if it don't work, the worst thing that could happen is spinning a bearing and having to do what you said anyways. It is worth a shot. Leaving it like that for that long wasn't the best idea though. Be sure to look at everything really good.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

Originally Posted by 1-bad-z28
ohhh....the rod journal. Try some fine grit sand paper (400 and up) and use some wd-40 to cut it with. If it is surface rust it should come off. Don't use water. That will probably do more harm that good.
Here's a technique:

Cut some wet or dry 400 grit paper to the width of the journal, and about 7-8 inches long. I'd use motor oil for lubrication. Soak the 400 grit strip in the oil, oil the journal and wrap the paper around it. Use a piece of cotton clothesline about 4 feet long (so you can get at the journal). Wrap the clothesline around the 400 paper on the journal a couple of times so it covers the whole journal and puts even pressure on the paper.

By pulling on one end and holding the other end tight, you can polish the journal evenly. Pulling on alternate ends works well. Remove the paper after a few pulls, wash out any crud and reoil, wash off the journal and go at it again.

If the rust is bad, you might start with 320 paper, then use the 400 to get a finish around Ra 8 which is good.

Theoretically you want to finish polishing in the direction that is the same as the bearing rubs, but that's the least of your problems.

You are going to have a small bit of grit in the oil holes, but if you flush them out afterwards with lots of WD-40 with it's little red tube, you should eliminate almost all of it. Obviously you'll need to drain the oil afterward. I'd also drain it again after you reassemble and start it up and run it for a few minutes.

I agree with 1-bad-z28, I'd try this type of thing first.
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

Forget all of what they said. If you want a cheap way out and the bearing is not shot, use some scotch brite and hit the rod journal. It WILL get the surface rust off without damaging the rod journal
Old Mar 22, 2005 | 12:26 PM
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Re: Rust on crank bearing

Originally Posted by 89305rs
Forget all of what they said. If you want a cheap way out and the bearing is not shot, use some scotch brite and hit the rod journal. It WILL get the surface rust off without damaging the rod journal
a scotch brite pad is more abrasive than 400 grit sand paper. It will scratch the journal. Do it how ever you want though. All i'm saying is I would use the sand paper.



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