Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
#1
Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
I am having an issue with my newly purchased 93 LT1 car right now. It runs and idles fine when its warming up, in open loop, but once it warms up, it runs very roughly. It will cut out when you gas it a little to accellerate while the car is in gear and driving. Pressing down the accellerator more than 1/4 throttle will cause the car to cut out, and if you continue press down the gas peddle, it will just ping under the hood. It won't accellerate at all unless you very gradually work it up to speed.
I just finished spending 7 hours changing the spark plugs and wires, and was really dissapointed to see no improvement. The car has 52,000 miles, and it looks like all the tune-up parts are original. It isn't showing any codes at all when I checked.
Does anyone have any idea of what my next part change should be? I am thinking maybe o2 sensors, but would that cause such a major missing problem? Opti?
I just finished spending 7 hours changing the spark plugs and wires, and was really dissapointed to see no improvement. The car has 52,000 miles, and it looks like all the tune-up parts are original. It isn't showing any codes at all when I checked.
Does anyone have any idea of what my next part change should be? I am thinking maybe o2 sensors, but would that cause such a major missing problem? Opti?
#2
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
one or both of the O2's are bad. if one is bad, the other will run lean, telling the computer to compensate by running overly rich. in open loop, the pcm isnt reading from the O2's yet.
#3
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Ditto with the above post. He has obviously been through this too. I just changed my plugs, wires, opti, coil. Still was running rich and stumbling. Turns out that my rt O2 was bad. Threw the whole thing out of whack. Every one of my plugs was carbon fouled making everything worse. I even changed my injectors back to the stock ones and stock pcm just to see if there was something wrong with the computer or new injectors. It finally threw a soft code that I was able to read. Been there man! Good luck!
#4
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Had a similiar problem with O2 sensors and my coated Hooker LT's. Turns out the O2's were never getting to the correct operating temperature, and were giving the computer erroneous information. Bought some extension kits, ran a couple of extra wires, problem solved.
#5
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
I was able to install the driver side O2, but couldn't remove the passenger side O2 since I didn't have adequate leverage to twist it off with the tools I had on hand. I ended up taking it to the dealership who installed the O2 sensor and a fuel filter. That did not fix the problem so they diagnosed it further and they say it is the Opti. They priced the Opti at $630 and the install at $180. I'll be ordering the Opti through Val at VanDevere and have the dealership install it. $180 sounds like a reasonable price to have someone change the Opti out in my opinion. Thanks for the help.
#6
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Don't be surprised if the price to install it goes up IF they even take the job when you show up with your self purchased opti. And they probably won't guarantee anything regarding the job.
BTW, considering the dealers desire to boost the bottom line, I wouldn't buy anything until I or someone other than the dealer checked a few things. My very dear friend (a snap-on dealer) is sick from hearing the mechanics at dealerships boast of having gotten this customer or that customer for x and such part.
Why would the opti be a the problem only after it warms up? If it were a spark issue, I would expect the coil or ICM to be the problem after warm up. Sounds like fishing to me.
Dave
BTW, considering the dealers desire to boost the bottom line, I wouldn't buy anything until I or someone other than the dealer checked a few things. My very dear friend (a snap-on dealer) is sick from hearing the mechanics at dealerships boast of having gotten this customer or that customer for x and such part.
Why would the opti be a the problem only after it warms up? If it were a spark issue, I would expect the coil or ICM to be the problem after warm up. Sounds like fishing to me.
Dave
Last edited by slopokrodrigez; 12-16-2004 at 06:34 PM.
#7
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Originally Posted by slopokrodrigez
Don't be surprised if the price to install it goes up IF they even take the job when you show up with your self purchased opti. And they probably won't guarantee anything regarding the job.
BTW, considering the dealers desire to boost the bottom line, I wouldn't buy anything until I or someone other than the dealer checked a few things. My very dear friend (a snap-on dealer) is sick from hearing the mechanics at dealerships boast of having gotten this customer or that customer for x and such part.
Why would the opti be a the problem only after it warms up? If it were a spark issue, I would expect the coil or ICM to be the problem after warm up. Sounds like fishing to me.
Dave
BTW, considering the dealers desire to boost the bottom line, I wouldn't buy anything until I or someone other than the dealer checked a few things. My very dear friend (a snap-on dealer) is sick from hearing the mechanics at dealerships boast of having gotten this customer or that customer for x and such part.
Why would the opti be a the problem only after it warms up? If it were a spark issue, I would expect the coil or ICM to be the problem after warm up. Sounds like fishing to me.
Dave
#8
UPDATE PROBLEM SOLVED: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Those *****....
They just tried to con me into a $630 Opti plus labor.
The O2 sensor fixed the problem. I just got done driving the car home and the problem is GONE. I was suspicious all along. Those ***** tried to rip me off.
They just tried to con me into a $630 Opti plus labor.
The O2 sensor fixed the problem. I just got done driving the car home and the problem is GONE. I was suspicious all along. Those ***** tried to rip me off.
Last edited by Bocefus; 12-16-2004 at 07:43 PM.
#9
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
If it was O2's you problem should clear up if you go WOT. If its not, i would look elsewhere. Unless 93's are different, which i dont think they are.
#10
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Originally Posted by jchevy
If it was O2's you problem should clear up if you go WOT. If its not, i would look elsewhere. Unless 93's are different, which i dont think they are.
#11
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Going WOT changes the PCM to Power Enrichment mode which is essentially open loop and does not take a reading from the O2 sensors. Maybe the 93's are different or i am just wrong all together.
#12
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
Originally Posted by jchevy
Going WOT changes the PCM to Power Enrichment mode which is essentially open loop and does not take a reading from the O2 sensors. Maybe the 93's are different or i am just wrong all together.
#13
Re: Runs fine in open loop, but stumbles badly in closed loop?
I had the same prob a while back. Car would run extremely rich when in closed loop, and would barely run when at partial throttle when under load. WOT was fine up untill about 3500-4000 rpm when it would barely pull anymore. Replaced the O2 sensor that was giving me trouble, and all the probs went away. I know the O2's arent' used for fuel calculation when at WOT, but they're still monitored, as you can watch them with any data logging/monitoring software. They must be still used for something since replacing them fixed my high RPM, WOT stumble as well.
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