Ok my car is running really rough after it warms up... causing the left bank to have higher numbers(Left Injector pulse and LIN to be twice of the right side) as well as the Left BLM to be at 160 with right at 128.

Now when the SES light comes on it runs fine(open loop right?). Now if it runs fine the second it comes on, what would that rule out as the problem? Would that rule out injectors, fuel pump etc?

I replaced the O2's and IAC, and plugs/wires were replaced about 500 miles ago.

Any help please so I can rule out what it is. It seems to me that it would be a sensor, but ive replaced most of my sensors. Wouldnt it still run rough in open loop if it had a bad/burnt wire?




*** This is from my old post...has some more information and numbers if you wanna read it. I would appreciate it!***

Car is an automatic. When it is in overdrive(4th, whatever)....it feels like its hitting a wall around 50 mph when I give it ANY gas. If I downshift to 3rd manually, it will accelerate ok...but still stumbles throughout all the RPM band.

Its the worse in 4th at around 50ish.

Also, it runs rough at idle while cold or hot. When the car gets hot, the RPMS will drop and I have a few Scanmaster readings if anyone can look them over please.

When engine is COLD:
IAC reading normal..stays above 20 at idle
RP and LP(Pulse) are normal and stay linear(together)
Lin and Rin(injectors) are normal as well
RBL and LBL are similar around 128, but quickly one of them quickly moves up(LBL goes up to 160...)

When engine is HOT:
IAC drops to below 04(very low)
LP is usually twice of what the RP is
Lin is about twice of what the Rin is
already said the LBL goes up to around 160


The car will throw a Left O2 sensor running lean. From these numbers people have told me it might be a vacuum leak. I adjusted all of the rocker arms hoping some of them were too tight causing a vacuum leak, but this did nothing. I also replaced the IAC but it didnt help. Plugs are new and gapped at .035...Coil is good. Opti was replaced with no improvement.

Would you guys recommend chaning wires AGAIN? They probably only have like 500 miles on them, if that. Maybe they are bad?

Also, would a vacuum leak cause all of the readings on one side of the engine(the injector readings) to be half the numbers as the other side..I guess thats my biggest question, if that sounds related to vacuum or ignition.

 

I currently have 1 bad O2. It runs fine until closed loop. I also made sure I have no dead cylinders since my O2 is unlike yours in that it indicates rich all the time.

If I were you, I would swap the O2's side to side and see if the problem follows the O2. New or not.

However explain something to me. In your recent post you say "my car is running really rough after it warms up..."

But in your previous post you say "Also, it runs rough at idle while cold or hot."

Which is it???????

If it's the former, I would say bad O2 perhaps. If it's the latter, it cold be an injector not opening. But if that were the case, you could easily see a cylinder not firing with an infrared thermometer or even the stone age method of pulling an injector clip.

 

Yea I just noticed I said that. This is exactly what it does.
When you first turn on the car, it will usually backfire and pop a little bit...no big backfire, but small ones.
It also sounds kinda like its missing, what might sound like piston slap? Im not sure because ive never heard it before...then once the car is running for a minute or two, it sorta calms down and idles fine. Then once the car begins to get hot(over 170 degrees or so) it gets worse, then it idles really rough and drops RPMS. The hotter it gets, the rougher it runs.