Just finished installing CC 1.6RR, 3/8, SA, with LT4 springs, new chromemoly pushrods and new CC lifters (not "R", just regular hydraulics).

Now it seems to idle rough and I also have a few misses..haven't scanned yet...doing it tomorrow morning. Yes, it does sound like a sewing machine and I think it's even louder due to the AL valve covers.

So for you guys doing 1.6RRs with stock cams, did it idle rough afterwards before you tuned it? Did you get any misses? I'm also seeing some smoking coming out the tailpipe...not sure if black or gray...kinda looks like what you see when it's cold in the morning and the steam...but it's not that.

Anything that could cause misses, rough idle, and possible burning of oil?

 

How did you set the lash?

Most on this board say to find 0 lash, then go 1/4 turn more. The factory service manual says to find 0 lash, then go a full turn more!

Sounds to me like the valves just aren't set properly.

Thomas.

 

Valves too tight would be my first guess.

 

So it appears that valve lash not set properly. Would that lead to any fluids being burned? I'll check tomorrow to see the color of the smoke, but somethings frying in there, because smoke is coming out the exhaust pipes.

 

I installed LT4 springs and CC 1.6 Pro mags.
I did zero lash plus 1/2 turn per CC instructions.

Perfect idle and no misses or performance issues.
My RR's are very quiet, I can barely hear them.

Maybe your are not tight enough

 

Here's a few items I can think of:

1) Possibly you weren't on the base lobe of the cam when you adjusted the rockers. You went in the proper sequence of setting lash correct? Shoebox has it on his website.

2) You should set your lash to 1/2 past zero lash if you have 3/8 studs. Zero lash is that point when you just barely feel that the pushrod doesn't move up and down, or when you try to spin the pushrod you just start to feel drag on it. Also, there is a seat on that black center part of the rocker that the stud goes through. Make sure the seat is facing up to let the nut rest on it.

3) Did you move plug wires at all? I would check to make sure they are in the proper order or not arcing.

4) You bought the correct stock length pushrods?

Dan

 

Yes, use stock length pushrods (Thunder Racing 7.2" heat treated CM). Also replace plugs since I replace the lifters, so did move the wires...will check to see if properly seated. So misfires could be from wires..but as for the smoke. Looking at it again...it's definitely oil burning.

A guy at the shop was thinking maybe a valve seal is bad? Makes some sense...with bigger ratio rockers, the valve stem is going down farther...maybe the extra travel of the stem (probably with gunk on it) is tearing up the seal?

Anybody have problems with oil leaks after RR install?

Car has 99K miles on it, so maybe due for valve seal refresh.

I'm having the shop recheck the valve lash. I recall they went 1/4 past zero first time around. Hopefully it's just that. Refresh my memory...to replace valve seals..need to remove the heads right? Can take them out from top?

 

You can change valve seals with the heads on the car. Use same procedure for replacing valve springs, but just don't replace the springs.

Since you just put on LT4 valve springs, why in the world would you not have changed the seals at the same time? IMO, any time you have the springs off, you should change the seals (if they have a bit of miles on them).

 

Amen shoe,
If you have the springs off its a cakewalk to replace the seals.
This is what I did when I put the LT4 springs and 1.6 RR's on.

 

Not to sound like a retard, but what exactly are the valve seals? Why are they important, and how much are they? Are these important to change if I put 1.6 S/A RR in?

 

They're a rubber seal around the actual valves. Leaking valve seals can lead to burning oil. They're like $20-30 for a set i believe.. possibly cheaper.

 

Valve seals keep the oil that lubes the springs and valves out of the combustion chamber. They are cheap. If you are putting in 1.6 RRs you will more than likely want to put in some LT4 valve springs. They are 35$ a set new from GM. Seals are going to be a must replace. It's easy and will save you time when you have to do it anyway down the road.

 

Hey Javier... check my signature..... I'm back in the game. Too bad I couldn't find a 97 BGM Z though. I got me a nice set of wheels for 2700$ though!!!!