LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Rotating assbly. for 12 sec n/a 11 n2o 355?

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Old Oct 12, 2003 | 09:54 PM
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Rotating assbly. for 12 sec n/a 11 n2o 355?

Hey, Some time in the future i am going to rebuild the z and want to start a shoping list. What pistons/ rods should i go with to withstand 12's n/a and 11's on the juice? Will i still be able to use the stock crank? Please post what pistons/ rods you are runing and where you got them thanks.
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 10:53 PM
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come on, every one can't be runing the stock shortblock
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 11:06 PM
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You can run low 12s with the stock bottom end you have. Port your heads and get a cam to match. I ran 12.22 on stock bottom end.
Old Oct 12, 2003 | 11:40 PM
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yea, but i have 175k on the motor and want to rebuild it so i can run low 12's with out woundering if the motor is going to survive. I wounld rather build it up all at once than to blow up the short block and have go back into it and rebuild it.
Old Oct 14, 2003 | 10:47 PM
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Stock crank, stud the mains, some $270 scat 4340 Ibeam rods, and either a fairly cheap KB hypereutectic piston, or a decent forged piston if you're going to actually spray alot/often.
Old Oct 14, 2003 | 10:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply, where is a good place to buy the parts for the lt1 engine?
Old Oct 14, 2003 | 11:06 PM
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Well, with ur rebuild, are u going to want to stay small cube or add stroke? What kind of **** of juice u plan on using? Also what is ur budget? I can give u a lot of good information, but i need to know where ur going, what ur looking for, and ur budget.
Old Oct 14, 2003 | 11:24 PM
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Well, i think i will just stay with a 355 to keep costs down, i will prolly go with a cc305 or cc306 and ported heads. My goal is to run in the 12's all motor and then hit a 100 shot to dip into the high 11's. I'm looking at spending about 2500-3000 on the longblock.
Old Oct 14, 2003 | 11:51 PM
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Stock crank turned .010 under and balanced, reconditioned and shot peened stock rods, all clevite bearings, forged pistons since you want to spray, stage II port and polish of heads, CC306 with matching valve train, and using ARP bolts everywhere will get you a reliable, 7000rpm capable motor that could easily get you in the high 11's without spraying. This combo should keep you under $3k and whatever's left over should be put toward a 12bolt with 3.73's, and a stronger clutch.

Jason
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 07:57 AM
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This would be a daily driver but would the spec stage II be enough to take the power?
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 09:13 AM
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Mmm, $2500-3k will easily be spent on decent topend (heads/valvetrain) components... So you might want to either hold off on the rebuild, or rebuild it & hold off on the topend stuff. Honestly, if it runs well & is in good condition, I wouldn't spend the $ on rebuilding it quite yet. I know I've got more than a few high mileage (135+) shortblocks making over 465 sae hp & being beaten on daily...
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 09:25 AM
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Listen to Phil. With heads [that i have] and the valvetrain parts that I still need, it will be at least $2500 if not more.
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 10:45 AM
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The spec stage 2 clutch is rated to 450hp I think. So that might not last too long with your combo. Plus I think you won't always keep those 100 jets in. You will get used to them eventually. If you went with stock heads and a cc305 or xe224/230 and a 12 bolt that would be more of a track setup. Because you could launch on the bottle and not worry. Buying the heads would give you more power all the time. But that is going to cost you alot for everything. 12 bolt=2k,Rebuild1500-2k,Juice 700-1k,Vavletrain 600-900. You said that you had limited funds.
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 01:21 PM
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Cost me 1600 to stroke my lt1. Used cast eagle crank, reconditioned rods, KB pistons and total seal rings. Local machine shop balanced it/assembled and clearanced it all. I wouldnt spend a bunch of money on the top end with 175000 miles until the bottom was rebuilt-I went that route and ended up with a rod bearing spun pretty quickly, then had to redo the bottom end. -MY .02. (spend 2500 on heads and cam, ruin them when a piston/rod lets go and have to start over-not good)
Old Oct 15, 2003 | 01:23 PM
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so most of you think i can use the stock crank, how about the rods, i would really hate to spend all this money and then throw a rod at 6k+ I know i will be going with forged pistons, what kind do you recomend? Also would the cc306 be too big of a cam to be driven on the street daily? i think i may send my heads to lloyd to be ported. With this many miles on it i don't think i would want to do heads/cam and then beat on the stock short block.



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