Rocker Arm Adjustment
Rocker Arm Adjustment
I put on and adjusted all my rocker arms last night (GMPP 1.6RR) and had a quick question to make sure I did it correctly. I used to method with the engine not running where I turned the poly lock down to find zero lash, then did 1/2 more turn and tightened the set screw. I am pretty confident that I found zero lash correctly.
Anyway, my question is that when I was turning the engine over to do the other rockers (2 cylinders at a time) I began to notice that the ones I had already adjusted were a bit lose and I could move the pushrod up and down a little. Is this just because the lifters compressed when I turned the engine over and there is no oil pressure to refill them? Or should I redo all the rockers??? I am kind confused here
Anyway, my question is that when I was turning the engine over to do the other rockers (2 cylinders at a time) I began to notice that the ones I had already adjusted were a bit lose and I could move the pushrod up and down a little. Is this just because the lifters compressed when I turned the engine over and there is no oil pressure to refill them? Or should I redo all the rockers??? I am kind confused here
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Originally Posted by 1quickTA
I put on and adjusted all my rocker arms last night (GMPP 1.6RR) and had a quick question to make sure I did it correctly. I used to method with the engine not running where I turned the poly lock down to find zero lash, then did 1/2 more turn and tightened the set screw. I am pretty confident that I found zero lash correctly.
Anyway, my question is that when I was turning the engine over to do the other rockers (2 cylinders at a time) I began to notice that the ones I had already adjusted were a bit lose and I could move the pushrod up and down a little. Is this just because the lifters compressed when I turned the engine over and there is no oil pressure to refill them? Or should I redo all the rockers??? I am kind confused here
Anyway, my question is that when I was turning the engine over to do the other rockers (2 cylinders at a time) I began to notice that the ones I had already adjusted were a bit lose and I could move the pushrod up and down a little. Is this just because the lifters compressed when I turned the engine over and there is no oil pressure to refill them? Or should I redo all the rockers??? I am kind confused here

If you did them right the first time don't do them again. I have heard of guys that end up bottoming out the lifters in their quest for zero lash.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
So you think that it is just because the lifters compressed a bit while turning the engine over by hand and that they couldn't expand again due to no oil pressure? That was my guess although I really have no idea.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Originally Posted by 1quickTA
So you think that it is just because the lifters compressed a bit while turning the engine over by hand and that they couldn't expand again due to no oil pressure? That was my guess although I really have no idea.
If you are not sure you did it right, you can always start it and do the adjustment with the engine running. IE loosen a rocker until it starts to clack and then tightend it till it stops and add what ever your lash is supposed to be.
It can get messy.
Last edited by aboatguy; Feb 26, 2006 at 08:31 AM.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
It's a little messy but it does work well.
Take two pieces of cardboard, and put them from the edge of the head, to the fender on each side. That way no oil goes down on the headers. You'll be glad you did while your adjusting them.
Take two pieces of cardboard, and put them from the edge of the head, to the fender on each side. That way no oil goes down on the headers. You'll be glad you did while your adjusting them.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
O and 1/2 turn past zero lash is too much if your using 7/16th Studs for the stock cam.
Go 1/4 turn. The worst that can happen is you will have to readjust them at some point down the road if they start clacking.
If their too tight, air leaks past the valves and it will run like garbage.
Go 1/4 turn. The worst that can happen is you will have to readjust them at some point down the road if they start clacking.
If their too tight, air leaks past the valves and it will run like garbage.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
I am still running the stock studs (3/8") so I dont know if 1/2 turn is too much. Let me know. Anyway, the ones that are "lose" I can move the pushrod up and down a bit after I have turned the crank over once or twice (I would say "a lot", maybe 1/8"). Should I just fire it up and see or should I redo them with less turn past lash or redo the lose ones or what?
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
1/2 turn with 3/8 studs is just fine.
If you are worried about some being out of adjustment, take a look at the exposed threads on adjusting nut of the rockers. they should alll be around the sameadjustment, meaning the treads should be the same. If one looks off compared to the others in going by what i mentioned, most likely the adjustment is off on the ones different thatn most of the others.
If you are worried about some being out of adjustment, take a look at the exposed threads on adjusting nut of the rockers. they should alll be around the sameadjustment, meaning the treads should be the same. If one looks off compared to the others in going by what i mentioned, most likely the adjustment is off on the ones different thatn most of the others.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Mine are way tighter than that. How many miles are on the lifters though? The spring in the plunger assemplies could just be getting weak with age.
I would set them all to your half turn. Then fire it up with the covers off. No alternator. If any tick, id readjust all of them that way you know their all done the same way.
I would set them all to your half turn. Then fire it up with the covers off. No alternator. If any tick, id readjust all of them that way you know their all done the same way.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
I like either method and neither is any more effective than the other if you do it correctly.
But I would only go 1/8 turn past 0 lash and try it with the motor running so you can HEAR 0 lash. Also, 0 lash is when there is no UP/DOWN movement of the pushrod, NOT when it no longer spins freely. As long as the locks are tight, you wont have any coming loose... in fact if the locks arent tight then the rocker will come loose at any setting.
But I would only go 1/8 turn past 0 lash and try it with the motor running so you can HEAR 0 lash. Also, 0 lash is when there is no UP/DOWN movement of the pushrod, NOT when it no longer spins freely. As long as the locks are tight, you wont have any coming loose... in fact if the locks arent tight then the rocker will come loose at any setting.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
My lifters have 65,000 miles on them so they should still be pretty good (i think). Why should I leave the alternator off when adjusting the rockers with the car running, just to keep it quieter?
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Originally Posted by aboatguy
Yes!
If you are not sure you did it right, you can always start it and do the adjustment with the engine running. IE loosen a rocker until it starts to clack and then tightend it till it stops and add what ever your lash is supposed to be.
It can get messy.
If you are not sure you did it right, you can always start it and do the adjustment with the engine running. IE loosen a rocker until it starts to clack and then tightend it till it stops and add what ever your lash is supposed to be.
It can get messy.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Alternator just gets in the way really.
And you'd have to take it back off to put the valve cover on anyways.
I did mine with it off.
It only takes about 10 minutes to do, if that?
So its not like you'll drain your battery down doing it.
And you'd have to take it back off to put the valve cover on anyways.
I did mine with it off.
It only takes about 10 minutes to do, if that?
So its not like you'll drain your battery down doing it.
Re: Rocker Arm Adjustment
Originally Posted by HardcoreRM125
O and 1/2 turn past zero lash is too much if your using 7/16th Studs for the stock cam.
Go 1/4 turn. The worst that can happen is you will have to readjust them at some point down the road if they start clacking.
If their too tight, air leaks past the valves and it will run like garbage.
Go 1/4 turn. The worst that can happen is you will have to readjust them at some point down the road if they start clacking.
If their too tight, air leaks past the valves and it will run like garbage.
I used the "engine runing" method.. so much easier and quicker too...
Marvin



OOPS!!