LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

RLB/LCA Help

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Old Mar 13, 2003 | 05:25 PM
  #1  
WheelmanZ28's Avatar
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RLB/LCA Help

I just recently noticed a major problem with my LCAs and RLBs. I have the Lakewood, nonadjustable Lower Control Arms and the BMR Weld In Relocation Brackets.

My problem is that the arms are pushing the wheels to far forward causing me to loose the little bit of slop needed into my driveshaft. This is causing my gears to be whiny on the deceleration.

Are the Lakewood arms NOT designed to be used with RLBs? I called Jegs and they had no idea what i was talking about.

Do i have to buy new LCAs to work with my RLBs? Please help me out, i don't want to bust my trans or rear end!
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 05:30 PM
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I don't know anything about the control arms, but I would be very careful as people on this board have broken they tranny output shafts when running too little slack on the driveshaft.

One alternative for you would be to have your driveshaft shortened.
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 05:37 PM
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You need adjustable LCA's with RLB's otherwise the arms come up short & change your pinion angle. Get the adjustables before you ruin something.
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 06:04 PM
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Originally posted by shocktrp
You need adjustable LCA's with RLB's otherwise the arms come up short & change your pinion angle. Get the adjustables before you ruin something.
How would the pinion angle be changed? I thought the torque arm controls the pinion angle on a 3-link suspension like ours.

I had the opposite problem with stock control arms and RLB brackets. My axle was pushed back in the wheel well.... adjustable control arms sure do help with these problems.
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 10:21 PM
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I have seen the non-adjustable control arms on many cars with Relocation brackets. U only need the adjustables if ur lowering ur car.

I need to know if the Lakewood Arms are incapatible with the BMR Relocation brackets, or if they were possibly installed wrong. Please help, I don't want to blow my pinion or my trans.
Old Mar 13, 2003 | 11:47 PM
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Thumbs down

I'm using the Spohn brackets. The holes are drilled in the arc of the LCA radius so if you use a 3" lower hole, the rear doesn't have to move closer. The hole's in the right place. If your car's not lowered, you need holes like that, or a longer (adjustable) LCA.

Last edited by Mikey97Z; Mar 13, 2003 at 11:55 PM.
Old Mar 14, 2003 | 10:26 AM
  #7  
WheelmanZ28's Avatar
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Does this mean that I have to buy different LCAs? or should I buy different RLBs?

I'm beginning to think that the BMR RLBs should only be used with the BMR LCAs. Does anyone else run different brands in their LCA/RLB setup?
Old Mar 14, 2003 | 10:52 AM
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The holes for the bracket should be drilled in an arch that swings around the imaginary circumference that the LCA would make if it was swung around its mount.

As long as the arms are the stock length, they will not relocate the rearend forward nor backwards, they just allow you to reset the correct downward angle that when lowering you messed up.




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