Review: ASP integrated underdrive pulley/damper
Warning, long post. 
First off, to the mods--how about adding a "Review" section where we can post our thoughts about specific products? Would save a lot of extra posts I think.
Brent, Rob, etc., feel free to put this on your website if you think it would help others.
Now to the review.
The product:It is a 23% underdrive crank pulley (model # 945100), that actually replaces the stock pulley/damper, as it has an integrated damper (a hard black material to the front of the pulley ribs). It felt lighter than the stock setup, which I guess wouldn't be a surprise since it is smaller in diameter. But I didn't weigh them to find out for sure.
I got mine from rpmoutlet.com for $155 shipped, the only place that had them in stock (both TByrne and Summit were out, looks like they are B/O'ed).
The install: First remove the stock belt with a 1/2" socket on the idler pulley.
Getting the old pulley off was a real pain until I decided to get the right tool. I was able to loosen all three pulley bolts with only a regular 3/8" drive wrench with 5/8" socket and ~1.5' breaker bar. Put the wrench on the bolt, and whack the breaker bar with a rubber mallet. Took two or three whacks each, and then I could do the rest by hand. No worries.
The tool I needed to finish it was a 3-claw puller. I had soaked the stock pulley down with synthetic lubricant around where it attached to the hub, but it was NOT going to come off by hand. I finally rented the AutoZone tool part #27078 (they gave me 27019 first, which DID NOT work), and had to shorten the three claws to their lower position.
To get it seated on the pulley, I had to remove both fans. Very easy except for the pass. side top right bolt. It's right behind a coolant hose. The easiest way to get to it is from the top, use your left fist to push down on the hose and with your right hand turn the socket by hand on the bolt (I believe they were 10mm?).
Then you can just put the puller on the pulley, making sure it's grabbing the back of the pulley and not the hub (where the pulley bolts to), and begin to turn the center screw in. The easiest way is to use an open or close-ended 5/8" wrench to turn the screw. As it goes in, the pulley comes out. Took some strength, but it works!
Then push the new pulley on by hand, just so it will stay by itself. Then start each bolt, a turn or two. Then tighten them each in small increments, which will pull the pulley on. Keep going until it's flush with the hub and the bolts won't turn anymore.
Now put on Goodyear belt part # 4060610 ($23 at AutoZone), which fits perfectly.
Reinstall the fans.
You're done!
The results: I can definitely notice an improvement in 2nd gear pulls. It revs up a bit quicker as well. The voltage gauge barely dropped at all, and is still above the 1/2-way mark (even with A/C and speaker amp going). It just seems to pull faster/harder in every gear.
The other unexpected improvement--the engine feels smoother! I think that this damper is a higher quality than the stock one, as the engine feels smoother at idle and even when revving.
The bottom line: I definitely recommend this as a good mod to any car! Total cost, about $170!

First off, to the mods--how about adding a "Review" section where we can post our thoughts about specific products? Would save a lot of extra posts I think.
Brent, Rob, etc., feel free to put this on your website if you think it would help others.
Now to the review.
The product:It is a 23% underdrive crank pulley (model # 945100), that actually replaces the stock pulley/damper, as it has an integrated damper (a hard black material to the front of the pulley ribs). It felt lighter than the stock setup, which I guess wouldn't be a surprise since it is smaller in diameter. But I didn't weigh them to find out for sure.
I got mine from rpmoutlet.com for $155 shipped, the only place that had them in stock (both TByrne and Summit were out, looks like they are B/O'ed).
The install: First remove the stock belt with a 1/2" socket on the idler pulley.
Getting the old pulley off was a real pain until I decided to get the right tool. I was able to loosen all three pulley bolts with only a regular 3/8" drive wrench with 5/8" socket and ~1.5' breaker bar. Put the wrench on the bolt, and whack the breaker bar with a rubber mallet. Took two or three whacks each, and then I could do the rest by hand. No worries.
The tool I needed to finish it was a 3-claw puller. I had soaked the stock pulley down with synthetic lubricant around where it attached to the hub, but it was NOT going to come off by hand. I finally rented the AutoZone tool part #27078 (they gave me 27019 first, which DID NOT work), and had to shorten the three claws to their lower position.
To get it seated on the pulley, I had to remove both fans. Very easy except for the pass. side top right bolt. It's right behind a coolant hose. The easiest way to get to it is from the top, use your left fist to push down on the hose and with your right hand turn the socket by hand on the bolt (I believe they were 10mm?).
Then you can just put the puller on the pulley, making sure it's grabbing the back of the pulley and not the hub (where the pulley bolts to), and begin to turn the center screw in. The easiest way is to use an open or close-ended 5/8" wrench to turn the screw. As it goes in, the pulley comes out. Took some strength, but it works!
Then push the new pulley on by hand, just so it will stay by itself. Then start each bolt, a turn or two. Then tighten them each in small increments, which will pull the pulley on. Keep going until it's flush with the hub and the bolts won't turn anymore.

Now put on Goodyear belt part # 4060610 ($23 at AutoZone), which fits perfectly.
Reinstall the fans.
You're done!

The results: I can definitely notice an improvement in 2nd gear pulls. It revs up a bit quicker as well. The voltage gauge barely dropped at all, and is still above the 1/2-way mark (even with A/C and speaker amp going). It just seems to pull faster/harder in every gear.
The other unexpected improvement--the engine feels smoother! I think that this damper is a higher quality than the stock one, as the engine feels smoother at idle and even when revving.
The bottom line: I definitely recommend this as a good mod to any car! Total cost, about $170!
Last edited by JSK333; Sep 15, 2003 at 07:03 PM.
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