LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Retorquing stock bottom end?

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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:25 AM
  #1  
kgkern01's Avatar
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From: Louisville KY
Retorquing stock bottom end?

Just curious as to if there would be any benefit to retorquing the rod bolts or main bolts on the stock bottom end? I have a 53k mi shortblock sitting here on a stand that I will be doing heads/cam on. I know that rod bolts stretch over time and you can't install ARP bolts without resizing the rods. Just wondering if using a bolt stretch gauge and retorquing the rod bolts would be of any benefit, or would it be more harm than good and I should just leave the 53k mi bottom end alone?
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:35 AM
  #2  
LearJet's Avatar
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
If it were me I would spend the extra $$$ and get a set of new rods like forged scat I-beams and a set of matching forged pistons. new rods and pistons will run you 500 bucks or so but you won't have to spend any $$$ getting them resized and if you go with bushed rods you won't have to pay the machine shop to press the pistons on. Take the block and stock crank to the machine shop and have em do what's needed. Assemble with new rings and bearings and have a rebuilt motor you can beat the **** out of without worrying about breaking it.

Oh yeah, in answer to your original question, no leave the bolts alone.
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #3  
kgkern01's Avatar
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I'm not looking at a bullet-proof build up or rebuild a 53k mi engine, I have a 4-bolt block I can build up to a stroker later. I am keeping the revs on this motor <6300 and running a new high pressure Melling oil pump with Canton RR pan. I was just wondering if that could be done to maintain reliability. So short answer = leave the bolts alone, correct?
Old Jan 26, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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From: Lancaster, Texas
Using the stretch method calls for loosening all the rod bolts to establish their free-length then re-torquing them to the spec called for - IF YOU KNOW IT.

If you merely want to check the torque setting, then the issue becomes the accuracy of your torque wrench. Has it been re-calibrated recently? If NOT can you trust it? Is it a high-end model?

I ONLY use the stretch method on NEW installs. On other verifying down the road checking, I use my torque wrench. I have mine re-calibrated, usually twice a year, by a South-West airline aircraft engine mechanic friend of mine using their equipment.

It's your call, but I wouldn't resort to the stretch method or, when using the torque verification method, loosen any torque setting.

Jake
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