Hey guys,

Again, disclaimer time: I'm a newb to LT1s (and heavy duty engine work for that matter) so I apologize if this thread does not make entire sense or seems pretty newbish. I have a 3.4L v6 Camaro that I've owned since 2002 and am finishing up rebuilding a 1995 LT1 that I purchased after putting a CC503, 1.6rrs, hardened pushrods, 918 springs, bowled heads (I think that's the term?), and other misc little things done.

Now I'm at the point where it's time to start planning the engine install and hookups. I hate how cluttered the stock LT1 is. My dad owns a 1995 Formula LT1. I wanted to see what the coolant temperature sensor looked like on the water pump and I couldn't even see the damn sensor because of all the clutter on top.

I'm deleting EGR and AIR so I know that will clean up a little bit of rim - though not much. My tune is going to be speed density so I won't require a MAF which in my opinion seems to lend towards a little flexibility in what I do for an intake and routing.

That said - is there any plausibility in EXTENDING the vacuum tubes that route on the intake so they run to the BACK of the engine then loop around to where ever they're meant to go? In other words - is there a limitation to the length of the vacuum tube before the vacuum efficiency itself decreases? My thoughts are more from a networking standpoint with attenuation when longer distances are introduced - does the same concept apply?

Likewise, is there any feasibility in simply extending the lengths of the wiring harness plugs so it's easier to hide them or keep them more organized so the engine harness is not draped all over the top of the intake?

Basically, ever since I visited LT1Engine.com and saw these two pics I've been obsessed with trying to make it so my LT1 install will be as clean as humanly possible. I understand, though, that this is a 93 engine so it might not be as complex as the items on the '95 LT1.

Anyway, any and all suggestions are welcome. I saw the thread on the Wire Tuck that was recently bumped but the pictures no longer work and there's no actual meat to his thread stating what he did.

Thanks in advance.

 

You can arrange them so that they go around the back of the engine. The only ones that are a pain are the ones that go down the dipstick area for the knock sensor and starter and the grounds that are down there. Those ones need to be lengthened. You can also get the vette fuel rail covers to cover the whole mess of wires for the injectors, map, maf, temp, etc. and intake vacuum lines if you want. Some people dont like my fuel rail covers, but I was doing a lot of car shows for a while so I added some bling under the hood.

 

I don't have any of pics handy:

You can drill a small hole in the back/side of the driver's fender and run the windsheild washer hose and hood release above the wheelwell/under the headlights and hide them.

The wiring harness is a bit of a pain, I make one out of two to legnthen them. I made brackets that mount to the block using the small tapped holes that hold a ground and plug wire guides, then wrapped then in fire sleeves and them thru the heat resistance tubing.

The EVAC valve on the passenger side I relocated to the back on the manifold behind the EGR. Since I couldn't hide the hose, I used braided hose and made polished stainless mounts that attached using the small holes between the injectors. So what I couldn't hind, I just dressed up.

The wires I couldn't run under the engine, injectors, MAP I noticed the intake where the fuel rails bolt on and ran the wires under the fuel rails.

Currently working on widing the wires on the passenger fender, but so far all I've done is take out the battery. This is also going to be a project, I plan to relocate the red plastic/power coupler doen next to the battery and weld up the holes. The wiring harness will be water proffed just to be safe, the car is not a DD and doesn't really go out in bad weather.

 

Awesome information! Thank you very much!