i ordered a set of springs for my heads to go along with my new cam, ive never removed springs before, the heads are off the engine already, what do i need to remove the springs, other than basic sockets and ratchet .thanks.

 

Only things you will need are a valve spring compressor, theres a few different types, one you turn a screw by hand, and theres a lever type that you mount it to the rocker stud and pull down on it, but you cant use it for the springs under the cowl area, and get a magnetic screwdriver or something to get ahold of the keepers are you compress the springs.

 

You'll need a tool to compress the springs to get the keepers out.
There are 2 types of tools you can use. The C clamp type
http://www.jegs.com//cgi-bin/ncommer...23&prmenbr=361
or the stud mount type.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...84&prmenbr=361

Also with the stud mount type, you can change the springs with compressed air while the heads are still on the engine.

 

DO you have to remove the heads to install new springs? I was wondering if the valves would fall down into the cylinders?

 

You can use compressed air, or this

 

well my heads are off and they are in my room, which tool would be better for lt1 heads? i plan on changing them tomarrow, thanks for the input.

 

How are you going to get a tool tonight?

I bought the Proform tool http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...84&prmenbr=361 and had trouble with it misaligning the spring for reinstall (others have noted the same issue). Moroso makes one that is virtually the same, but I have heard better reviews of it's operation. It can also be used on the car when there is room, where the c-clamp type cannot.

 

i was gunna grab one from murrays lol, but i guess i better order a nice one from jegs or summit.. thanks

 

If the heads are off I would just use a screw type compressor since if you used a stud mount you'd be wrestling to keep the head on the floor while trying to push down on the valve spring.

 

K-D tools makes a nice screw type compressor, p/n 3741 if I remember right. The handle comes off so you can use a wrench on it.

 

I've changed valve springs a couple of times on a 95 Z28, both with the heads on and off the car. I've own the Summit copy of the Moroso lever tool and I've also used the screw type compressors, including the K-D one mentioned above. I always borrow a valvespring mic when doing this job too.

A few observations:

-- the lever type that I have will work with the heads on the car. You need to slightly disassemble the tool for the ones under the cowl and be a little clever, but it works the best IMO.

-- The screw types will kill your hands unless the handle comes off allowing a wrench to be used. Biggest problem with those is that they rely on gripping the spring with the fingers of the tool, and if those fingers aren't long enough you won't be able to grab the inner spring if you have dual valve springs. The lever tools don't have this problem.

-- The C-clamp style is awful to use under any circumstance and when I tried to use a borrowed one I was worried about damaging the head.

-- If you are changing springs, you need to be mindful of installed height. You need to measure each and every retainer to spring seat height with a valvespring mic. Heads aren't uniform and neither are springs. Measure and re-measure!

-- Be careful that you don't drop a keeper down an oil passage. I've never done it, but I can see how it would be easy to do.

-- If the heads are on the car, then just rotate the motor so that the piston is up at TDC when you do those valvesprings. That way the valve will rest on the piston before it falls through. No need to mess with compressed air and spark plugs.

Hope that helps.

 

I used a tool like this, worked well.
I know at least with the iron heads you can just bring the piston on the cylinder you are working with to TDC and the valve will not fall far, no compressed air needed. You just have to be SURE that that cylinder is at TDC, this is how most of us b-body drivers do it. Anyone know why this would not work with your aluminum headed LT1s? It is much easier than trying to deal with air, even on our boats, I am sure your plug access is worse so hooking up an airline would be rough.

 

Works the same for the F-body folks.

lt1g3n has the heads off right now, though. Even easier!

 

I also was trying to come up with an easy idea to change springs on the car, and I made this plate. Check out the links below for some pics of the tool. Works GREAT by the way on or off the car.

http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=111
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=112
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=113
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=114
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=115
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=116
http://groups.msn.com/BriansFbodyPic...to&PhotoID=117

Brian

 

I bought a plain screw type compressor from Schuck's (Checker's, Kragen's, same place) and it worked just fine changing the springs out ON the car.

I didn't use air either.