LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Removing the heads

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 12:59 PM
  #1  
95z28man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 537
From: Lancaster, Pa
Removing the heads

To remove the heads, do I have to actually take off all the rockers and everything as mentioned in the Haynes manual or can I just take the 16 head bolts off?
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:08 PM
  #2  
Ok4thGen's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 225
From: Enid, Oklahoma Cofba/TFCC
The rockers are attached to the head itself, you will never the less have to loosen the rockers in order to remove the pushrods, trying to remove a head with the pushrods in would more then likely end up with some badly messed up pushrods.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:17 PM
  #3  
dangalla's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,092
From: lakeville, pa
yeah just loosen the rockers enough to get the pushrods out and you will be fine
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:24 PM
  #4  
raroz28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,326
From: Metro Detroit, MI
I had to pull one rocker from each cylinder to make it easier.

I couldn't get a socket on the head bolt that is between the rockers.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 01:48 PM
  #5  
speed_demon24's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,245
From: Ocala, Florida
It takes 1 minute to get all the rockers off so I don't know why you are making such a big deal about taking them off...
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:03 PM
  #6  
95z28man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 537
From: Lancaster, Pa
Originally Posted by speed_demon24
It takes 1 minute to get all the rockers off so I don't know why you are making such a big deal about taking them off...
I realized that a little later on and just took them off. My first h/c swap in case you can't tell lol.

BTW is it usually INCREDIBLY hard to get the head bolts loosened up? I'll try some PB Blaster but these things are stuck on real good. Any tips appreciated.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:07 PM
  #7  
dangalla's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,092
From: lakeville, pa
use a big bar on the end of your ratchet, rust penetrant is not going to help
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:11 PM
  #8  
raroz28's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,326
From: Metro Detroit, MI
Originally Posted by 95z28man
I realized that a little later on and just took them off. My first h/c swap in case you can't tell lol.

BTW is it usually INCREDIBLY hard to get the head bolts loosened up? I'll try some PB Blaster but these things are stuck on real good. Any tips appreciated.
They're torqued to 80 ft lb's and have been on the car for 12 years.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:19 PM
  #9  
n2ceptor's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,456
1/2 drive breaker bar 18" long ??????? No probs here?????
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:31 PM
  #10  
95z28man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 537
From: Lancaster, Pa
I've got to get this engine out... I can barely move
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #11  
Kevin Blown 95 TA's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,684
Originally Posted by 95z28man
I've got to get this engine out... I can barely move
what? LOL, You can get it done with them in there - I've done it a bunch of times. The last time was on a friend's original '95 with broken header studs - and, hell yes, the head bolts were on there incredibly tight. They all screeched as they were coming off and I was pretty tired after knocking them all loose. I used a good sized breaker bar, and if you don't have one, go spend the $10 or $20 and get one.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 06:43 PM
  #12  
95z28man's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 537
From: Lancaster, Pa
Originally Posted by Kevin Blown 95 TA
what? LOL, You can get it done with them in there - I've done it a bunch of times. The last time was on a friend's original '95 with broken header studs - and, hell yes, the head bolts were on there incredibly tight. They all screeched as they were coming off and I was pretty tired after knocking them all loose. I used a good sized breaker bar, and if you don't have one, go spend the $10 or $20 and get one.
I put a small lacrosse stick on the end of my wrench and got all the bolts off of the top of the head easily. But what about the bolts on the side of the head underneath the headers? It doesn't seem like I'll even be able to fit anything in there, seeing as I was having a hard time with a wrench only.
Old Oct 21, 2007 | 07:06 PM
  #13  
Kevin Blown 95 TA's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,684
You aint John Force. Take off the headers, THEN take off the head bolts.

Just kidding. I do them the same as all the others. Socket, extension, breaker bar
Old Oct 22, 2007 | 11:13 PM
  #14  
jclark311's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 446
I have a 3/4 air gun that runs them right out, they were probably rusted in, after time the water gets through the thread sealer, breaker bar to loosen them, air gun to finish the job would make it easier. JMOI
Old Oct 22, 2007 | 11:19 PM
  #15  
speed_demon24's Avatar
Registered User
 
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,245
From: Ocala, Florida
You have the headers unbolted and dropped down below the heads right? Even the lower ones are a straight shot with a breaker bar/extension. Getting off the head bolts should be easy.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:57 PM.