Colin

Hey guys,
I have a '72 Vega with a '93 LT1/T56. Due to clearance issues with the front engine mounts I have decided to go with a remote Meziere electric water pump so I can run my alternator.

I have my water pump down at a CNC shop. They've made 1/2" block plates with -12 AN fittings screwed in. Everything seems ready to rock, but I have a few questions.

First, I know I need a single inlet electric pump. Where do I mount a remote thermostat? I know it should be above the heads.

I'm really confused here. Help me figure out where to put a thermostat. Also, would it need to be dual -12 AN inlets and dual -12 AN outlets or what?

ANY help is appreciated. I know this isn't a common thing to do. Honestly, though, this will save me TONS of work. If anyone needs block plates, I can have them made for you, too. The shop said they can do aluminum or stainless.

As it stands, I'm going to run dual -12 AN in the blog and -12AN out. I don't know where to mount a remote thermostat housing and whether it should be a dual in/single out style or a dual in/dual out.

Thanks,
Colin

Guest47904

Why does the thermostat housing have to be moved? Aren't you only moving the physical location of the water pump? Are you moving the radiator? If not I don't see any need to move the thermostat.

As far as the inlet and out on the pump. That's just a simple supply and demand question. The outlet can be as big or smaller than the inlet. So it can't be twice as big. But remember, if you have a single 12 an that somewhere "y"s to 2 - 12 an, that is still only as large as the single 12 an line. It is not the equivalent of 2- 12an's.

bw_hunter

I don't see how you're going to do it because of the design of the stock pump and cooling system. The holes in the block feed passage that cool the head first and then the rest of the engine. The stock pump housing feeds coolant and when the coolant gets hot it opens the top of the pump and lets coolant flow into the radiator. Both holes are feeds and there isn't a seperate return line. The pipe attached to the back of the heads is not a return per se.

On a regular small block you could pump coolant into the block holes and get it back out of the intake manifold. The intake on an LT1 is dry so that won't work...

Also, and I didn't do the math but, to equal the cooling of the stock pump, you're going to have to pump more than 37 gallons per minute. Can that be do with 2 3/4" lines at the existing 18psi system pressure?

I'm not saying it can't be done but I don't think it'll be easy....

Colin

Hey guys,
I am not moving the stock pump. I am turfing the whole thing and going with a remote Meziere water pump. This is a proven swap, but it's expensive.

For reference, the fastest LT1 in the world (N20Dave on LS1Tech.com) runs a similar swap, although he runs -16AN. I certainly don't need -16AN as I'm making about 1/10th the horsepower.

I am going to dual feed the block. My block plates have -12AN in, and -12AN out. I already know that the block doesn't get fed coolant the same as a standard SBC.

My question was: Where do I put a thermostat housing in-line? It will determine whether I buy a dual-outlet Meziere pump or a single outlet Meziere pump.

Like this guy's Fiero LT1 (but I am running -12 AN)

bw_hunter

Where do the people that have this setup put the thermostat?

From the pic...is one of those an inlet and one an outlet? If one is an outlet, feed the bottom one and put the thermostat in the return line from the top port. Is there a plat like that on both sides?

Colin

Yep, each side has a plate like that. For reference, that isn't my car. That's an LT1 in a Fiero. Rather than run barbed fittings I'm running AN. Meziere recommended -12AN for my setup.

Thanks for the help. I'm going to buy a remote reservoir with dual inlets and then run a standard SBC water neck with thermostat and run that to my radiator.