RacingTiger04

Ok heres the deal.. planning on a big rebuild in april/may. pretty much my DD car, and looking for good streetable 400rwhp. probly goin with either LE2 or LE3 for the heads, but im at a toss up on what to do for the bottom end.. goin to have probly everything re-done, so as far as cost-effective would it be worth it to go ahead and have it made into a stroker 383 or just a 355?? and either way might it be cheaper just to get a shortblock already built (such as the VRE shortblocks) or have it built from my block. and what kind of valvetrain will i need to support the LE2 or 3 package? (or do they come with all the stuff i need?) also i know ill need to upgrade injectors, tb, and probly the fuel pump for all of this correct?? and if anyone has anyone else to throw into the mix ur more than welcome too cause i want to go ahead and figure everything im gonna do out. (still open to suggestions on heads just heard lots of good about the LE packages and think thats the best option)

mebanditws6

If there are good machine shops in your area, I wouldn't be afraid at all to have them do the rebuild. But since this is you daily driver, it would be easier to order an assembled shortblock. That way you can build on it while driving your car as is right now. If you did want to stay local, you could find another LT1 motor and build that up if you still need to minimize downtime.

As for 400rwhp, you can easily do that with a 355. The LE stage 2 heads/cam package would be a great way to go as it's proven, and it comes with everything you need minus rocker arms (get pro-magnum 1.6's) pushrods, and lifters. And for those, just go with what Lloyd recommends. The cam with that combo will be a good street cam but still pull like mad up top. You really don't need the stage 3 kit as it will be peakier, but it would be a great setup for a stroker. For compression, go with around 11:1 for streetability and a wider torque band then with 10:1 or 10:5 with that bigger cam. You may have to mill the heads to get there depending on piston choice.

That said, if you stay with a 355, you can reuse the crank (grind it for a new finish) and rods (shotpeen and resize them). Get some lightweight forged pistons or hypereutectic would be fine if you don't plan on spraying. Summit sells an engine rebuild kit with pistons, all bearings, gaskets, oil pump, and all hardware needed. One key reminder about the oil pump is to stay with a stock volume when using the stock oil pan. This with the higher pressure "white" spring will boost oil pressure and insure well oiled lifters. The key is light for more durability at higher rpms. For the block, stud the 2 bolt for extra rigidity and strength and get ARP bolts.

As for supporting mods, 30lb injectors will be enough, a bored 52mm throttle body will be enough. Also long tube headers will compliment your true duals very well.

This combo with get you a reliable, 400+rwhp 7000+rpm motor that will pull like a raped ape compared to your stocker, and will take just about everything you throw it. Just get a good tune from madz28 or pcmforless. You can't go wrong with either tuner. good luck

Jason

1racerdude

It's a lot easier with a 383 and big heads and a mid size hyd roller. A 355 starts getting radical at that power level (475-500FWHP)and your computer runs out of fuel tables at 7200RPM's. Depends on what ya are willing to put up with for a DD.
It can be done either way.

With 30# ya will JUST squeek by at a 89% duty cycle @45PSI. 36lb will get ya there safe and have room for future mods.