Do you already have the correct oversize bearings? Do you know how to put the rings on with the right side facing up? Make sure you don't overlap the oil ring. Make sure the tang on the rods are on the pan side. Don't swap caps, make sure they stay in the same place as machined. All I can think of right now.

 

Go for it, you have a good attitude and believe me, even if it does not go perfectly, it's a lot easier to be mad at yourself than at a shop.

A few more things I think it's good to highlight:

Clean the machined block SUPER well, even though the shop no doubt told you they already did so. This includes removing all the oil plugs, and pressing the steel ball out of the main oil galley, to blast water through them, then air. A piece of brakeline and nut will thread into your air blowoff gun to make a great tool for this.
Don't let the machined surfaces rust - dry and oil immediately.
Make sure you put the steel ball back into the oil passage fed by the pump!
Drill the oil galley plugs behind the cam gear like the stock ones.
Use a bolt-on pump pickup or tack weld it in.
Check pump pickup to pan clearance.
A hardware store steel rod of the right size makes a cheap and handy cam install handle.
Locktite the opti screws.
Take pictures all during assembly. Write detailed notes right in the book as you go. Then later when you think 'did I.....?' you have the answer.

Check your deck height - it's very tricky to measure correctly. I have a thread about my experience someplace.

Good luck!

 

Use silicone when you install the freeze plugs. Ask me how I know!!

 

The rings were gapped, and allready on the pistons, that was done at the machine shop (long story about why they are not assembling it... but they are a VERY reputable shop... the owner and I just has a miscommunication, then a heated argument, so they dont want to build it.

I know about the oil retention rings, as well as the other rings, dont mix the main caps (will be easy due to 4 bolt conversion, they are "bolted" onto the block now.

Tang on the rods on pan side... check...

checking deck height... not sure what that means...

Also, how to I check piston/valve clearance? What do I do if there is an issue there?

 

Sounds fun!

I've always found the hardest thing is pumping out cash for tools... Some tool comes along that you need and it costs an arm and a leg. Maybe getting a job at a shop should be the first step to rebuilding an engine!

 

i suggest you have the short block assembled by someone who knows what they are doing, the rest i dont see you having a problem with as long as you take your time and pay attention, thats what i did

 

That is what I think im leaning towards...

Too much money tied up, and to much of a gamble on the short block for me I think...

And for $300-$450 (Its $450 for the complete long block) I think its monel well spent... but I have no doubt I can handle the rest.

 

Hope to do this myself one day. Keep us posted.