Who has LT1 rebuild kits, with no guess work? Maybe 355 kit or std bore, also how much horse can you safely run with a 2 bolt main. Car will be N/A if that helps. Just spun a bearing.... Damn it.

Thanx Jason

 

Remember that just because you spun a bearing doesn't mean you have to have the block bored. You could have the rod that spun resized and then just replace the bearings (and rings while you're in there).

That is of course if you didn't drive the motor too far with the spun bearing.

-Dave C. '97 Z28

 

No didn't drive it far at all 3 miles maybe. I just thinking of options. Any places come to mind?

 

I'm at work but I do have a link to some great rebuilds at home... I'll link you later tonight. Also, it isn't a bad idea to upgrade the bottom end if you're ready. Are you pretty good with tools? Just to brush up and prep, I'd recommend some reading on the LT1. There is a book out there that has some good tips and pictures. Have the block machined... might as well have it trued out since you are building it. Then throw in a bottom end. You can always upgrade the top end later if budget doesn't permit now.

I'm told, have not grenaded a block, but a 2-bolt can go up to 600 HP at the crank if it is studded. I've worked on a few blocks for 450 RWHP and 480 RWHP... kind of sketchy from hitting that limit. Some guys have gone up to 500 RWHP no problem... just get the block x-rayed and they can see the core shift.

 

Thanks for the reply, the links will help. I'm good with tools, won't be my first engine rebuild... jus first Lt1.

 

Summit has a rebuild kit that runs 529.99. It has forged pistons and the rest of the material is good quality. No part number, you have to call them and ask them about a sealed lt1 forged rebuild kit. They will know which one your asking about.

Also, Here is another place if you are thinking of going with a forged or scat 9000 crank. I am debating on the 355 or 383 rebuild myself.
Here is the link.

http://www.adperformance.com/rotating_chevy_sbc.html

You get very high quality parts for the price IMO.

 

Scat has a kit as well, that comes with a Scat9000 crank, I-beams, and Probe I think forged pistons...Part # is 383IPS or something along those lines.

I spun a rod bearing myself, and somehow it wore pretty good into my cylinder wall I needed to have it bored.

 

You can purchase that kit through Scat's website? Could you post the URL to purchase that kit.

 

hey thanks for the replies and link, keepem comin. Dave that's crazy man...Did you drive with it like that for a while?

Jason

 

I drove it for maybe oh, 10-15 miles...but i was revving it like an idiot because I was mad.

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/clack1.mpg

http://paradox.shacknet.nu/dave88lx/formula/clack1.mpg

You can get that kit from AD Performance: www.adperformance.com

I hate to sound like a damn billboard, but he's just taken GREAT care of me in the past with parts etc.

 

Try this link...

http://www.gofaststuff.com/kits.html

Kit 13005 for a 383.

Scat makes a good crank too. Just stud the mains and it should be fine.

Good luck!

 

Dave gettin mad... it happens... what can ya do. Hey Wild what do you mean by studing the mains? Like ARP stud bolts?


Jason

 

i have a re-built LT1 w/ only 11k miles on it. willing to sell complete w/ 4l60 tranny for $2250. let me know either way. thanks


-Daniel

 

Funny Dave, I drove mine for ~2.5 miles..no clack...just seized. LMAO..Moral of the story..if something doesnt look/sound right..just have it TOWED!!!

Member of the "Something broke and I drove it home anyways" Club.

 

Yes, studding the mains with ARPs you will utilize the full depth of the threads versus a bolt which doesn't seat to the base of the hole. This provides a bit of extra grip on the bottom end where needed.