I have a 101,XXX mile motor and was trying to think of what to do with it this winter.

My goals are low 11's/high 10's with seat time. Weight savings will be utilized to reach this goal. I was going to throw a CC306 or GM 847 in. If all went well add a TNT Wet Kit increasing shots until I reach my goal and/or something blew, trying to keep rpm's low to preserve the bottom end.

But with the high miles I was considering a budget 355 rebuild, maybe a stock crank with forged rods and pistons? Enough to handle a revving up to 6500 with nitrous. I'd probably stick with the same setup as above, just without the worry of high miles causing problems. The most I would push it to would be the GM847 with LE1 heads and a 150 shot OR GM847 with 200-250 shot, still keeping rpms close to 6500.

What do you guys think? Budget and goals in mind. Should I go aftermarket cast crank, forged?

-Dustin-

 

i think you'd be fine with just pistons. there's some guys on here who have a stock bottom end and are running 10's with just head/cam swaps. keep in mind though with this speed you'll need a new rear. i dont think that there's anyone here running a stock rear on that type of 60' time.

put some serious money into heads and intake and match with a good cam and you'll make it there easily enough.

 

Our economy short blocks consist of Eagle cast crankshaft, Eagle h-beam connecting rods, and SRP pistons, but for around $200 more most people upgrade the crankshaft to the Eagle 4340 forged.

 

I'd go right there, and while you are at it, go 383 too. It's no more money to do that and you know how it is...You are never fast enough. Give yourself something to grow with.

 

If I were you I'd go for the forge crank b/c of the nitrous. A 355 will work fine and save you a couple of hundred.

An LE1 setup would put you around 6200rpm redline, and result in 375-395rwhp. Then add a baby 100shot and your right under 500rwhp. With a very realiable, and affordable daily driver, capable of high 10's. Damn thinking about it makes me kinda wish I would of gone this route.
-brandon

 

I appriciate the information Eric, but I'll more than likely be doing an at home build.

After much thought and research I think the route I'm going to go is some LE1/LE2 Heads with either a LE2 cam or CC306. Maintaining the N/A power level at or around 400rwhp, while keeping the RPM's around 6500. Then possibly putting no more than a 100-125hp TNT wet shot of N2O on it rarely. Maybe a few times at the track or a grudge race or two. I must keep in mind I still have a 4L60E and 10 bolt, built or not.

I was looking through Summit and found that Scat 9000 cast cranks are rated at 900hp and their forged I beam rods are rated at 750hp. Also the Mahle Power Pack piston kit seems like a good deal for some forged pistons. What does everyone think about those items in a 355 seeing around 400rwhp and maybe 500rwhp with some juice? Shifting around 6500. Again the N2O would be a rare occassion.

I plan on stripping the car of all unnecessary weight. Its no longer a daily driver, so shaving weight shouldnt be too rough. No interior except for front seats, no A/C, skinnies at track, etc. It'll see 85% street the rest track. I think the Vigilante might need restalled a bit higher, but thats something that will be fine tuned once it hits the streets.

At what point would 4 bolt mains be more important vs a forged crank?

My goal is 11's motor, 10's juiced. Think I've got the formula for it?

-Dustin-

 

Skip the CC306

re: at home build

Do you have access to a reputable machine shop who can do all the necessary work for you?

You will be hard pressed to buy all the components yourself and farm out the machine work and come out cheaper than a VRE build. Just FYI.

I would have gone with VRE had I not picked up a shortblock from a member here who did not use it that was built along the lines of what you seek: 355 / Mahle Forged Pistons / Scat I Beam 4340 Rods / Stock crank lightened/polished/balanced

 

Well I'm definately leaning towards a Bret Bauer/LE powered car. The CC306 is just a back up option.

I have someone who does machine work for my family who does very good work. He used to head Summit's Engine shop building engines for amoung other big names, Lingenfelter, and now runs his own at home. Its my understanding that he does engine work for close to nothing for our family, dont ask me why but thats what I have gained from my relatives with their muscle cars. I'll be speaking with him soon about the build.

Thanks Javier, any numbers yet with your combo?

-Dustin-

 

Good deal on the build.. machine work is $$$ so if you can save there that's great!

No numbers yet out of the 355 build yet Car needs a tranny, it's ok to drive around and play around with but it slips at high RPM use. The LE2 heads/cam on my old shortblock went 11.9 @ 114 with the above mentioned slipping tranny on my first pass out. There was alot more left in it... we'll see what it does with the new shortblock and the LE3 cam eventually.

 

When do you think you'll get the tranny in it, winter is right around the corner.

 

Man I'm not sure I'm going to get a chance to get a tranny in for this year's winter track time

If I can get the engine bills paid off shortly (almost done), and have a couple more good months at work I might be able to squeeze a tranny in, needs a bigger stall too. I also need a new set of ET's, mine are done. I might try a set of 275/50/15 M/T DR's though.. just need a set of Welds too...

God knows I need 4.10's before this setup will really start to get moving though.. I also need to take the car to Formato for a dynotune... so lots of $$$