Depends who you ask.

 

I got a great deal on my Scat assembly from Sallee Chevrolet in OR.

 

Could you do both or would it be over kill considering its still 3.48 stroke?

 

hey bret, since you designed the cam and know 10000000x more about it and everything else in my motor what kinda pistons would you go with i was looking at forged flat tops, then there are nitrous/blower pistons which are dished like -31cc. how many cc should i go with?

 

Ok i called golen today and talked to the owner Chad, he said that a "competition" 355 383 and 396, forged, 4 bolt, all 3500 bux, built ready to go. Now i have a decision to make whether to go with the 383 which he suggested or the 355, what do you guys think? Remember 6 speed and keeping the stock gears.

O yea, he said they use ARP main studs, JE pistons, eagle crank, h-beam rods.

 

What you are looking at on a N2O motor vs. a NA motor is the depth of the top ring land AND the ring end gaps....

A SRP 3.48 stroke, .030 over, 5.7" rod piston has the top ring land down far enough that they will take a crap load of N2O.....

I'm sure Golens can work with you on that. Since they do Eagle and SRP stuff.

Don't go to a big dish piston for N2O that will screw it all up.

Bret

 

will the 383 have enough room too, to be able to take a big hit of nitrous?

 

You would have to check the depth of the top ring land on the pistons to tell.

Bret

 

JMO,
If you haven't ordered yet and are serious about the nitrous, I'd look into an L-19 bolt upgrade on the eagle rods. It was roughly 100 something dollars but changes the rating of the rods to 750hp if I remember right.

Pistons:
Custom pistons are where its at, just tell them you want nitrous specific pistons for XXX compression ratio. Custom pistons weren't too much more than shelf pistons, they just take a while longer to make.

Every manufacturer can make you nitrous specific pistons. Mine are Diamonds with 11:1 comp, lowered ringlands and different rings (gap is important when they assemble the motor, so make sure Golen knows what your goals are).

But if you don't plan on spraying a lot (Less than 200), you should be fine with a good forged piston. No need to go all special if you just play it safe on the tune and possibly go progressive or staged. Many people have been fine at this level, some even on stock bottom ends.

A 200 shot and below saves time, money and energy on the buildup. Above that level is when it might be beneficial to go with n20 specific parts.