rear end removal
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 260
From: Whitby, Ontario, Canada
rear end removal
hey guys, just wanted to ask a few questions about dropping the rear end of 96 Z28. fuel pump died out on me and couldn't bring myself to cut a hole in the back to do it the quick way. sorry in advance if this kinda lengthy
started yesterday and so far everything was good. removed torque arm, sway bar, panhard bar, driveshaft, etc. the only things left are shocks, LCAs, parkin break cables, and brakes
my two questions are:
1. where and how should i go about disconnectin the parkin brakes lines? i read somewhere that that you gotta go inside the car and under the console to release the tension first by removing a spring or something, not sure if this is true
2. what is the easiest way of removing the rear brakes? by just takin the calipers right off the and hangin them outta the way, or by disconnectin and drainin the brake lines b4 they hit the axle housin.
if drainin them is the easiest way, do i have to go through a process of bleedin the whole system or n e thing important i have to do in this process? also will my computer throw a code when i try to start the car later cause of the ABS. just wonder cause i've never done this on a car with ABS & traction control b4
started yesterday and so far everything was good. removed torque arm, sway bar, panhard bar, driveshaft, etc. the only things left are shocks, LCAs, parkin break cables, and brakes
my two questions are:
1. where and how should i go about disconnectin the parkin brakes lines? i read somewhere that that you gotta go inside the car and under the console to release the tension first by removing a spring or something, not sure if this is true
2. what is the easiest way of removing the rear brakes? by just takin the calipers right off the and hangin them outta the way, or by disconnectin and drainin the brake lines b4 they hit the axle housin.
if drainin them is the easiest way, do i have to go through a process of bleedin the whole system or n e thing important i have to do in this process? also will my computer throw a code when i try to start the car later cause of the ABS. just wonder cause i've never done this on a car with ABS & traction control b4
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 60
From: Bay Area, CA
Whoa there! Unless the 96 is very different from 94, I don't think you have to do so much work.
I just did it this weekend and did NOT remove the drive shaft.
Lift the car very high by the rear end ( I used some wood under my big floor jack.)
Remove torque arm, unbolt the sway bar at the ends (but leave it attached to the axle. Unbolt the LCA at the body (leave attached to axle). Remove pandhard, heat shield etc.
Leave the parking brake lines attached. Supprt the body with jackstands and start to lower the rear end. Make sure the bolt that hold the regular brake line up against the body (near the pump electrical connector) is out. this will let the brake lines flex down a little.
I was able to squeeze the tank out with the p-brake cable still in place and stretched a little but not STRESSED.
I have done this method twice now, let me know if you need any details cleared up
Sean
I just did it this weekend and did NOT remove the drive shaft.
Lift the car very high by the rear end ( I used some wood under my big floor jack.)
Remove torque arm, unbolt the sway bar at the ends (but leave it attached to the axle. Unbolt the LCA at the body (leave attached to axle). Remove pandhard, heat shield etc.
Leave the parking brake lines attached. Supprt the body with jackstands and start to lower the rear end. Make sure the bolt that hold the regular brake line up against the body (near the pump electrical connector) is out. this will let the brake lines flex down a little.
I was able to squeeze the tank out with the p-brake cable still in place and stretched a little but not STRESSED.
I have done this method twice now, let me know if you need any details cleared up
Sean
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