Hey guys, I changed my rotors and pads on the back yesterday and after I took it for a drive, the left side brake got real hot and started smoking.

The actual piston seemed to work fine and compressed with normal pressure (not 100% sure) before installing the pads. The sliders seemed to move freely and the parking brake looks like it's adjusted OK.

When the rotor got heated up, the smoke seemed to be coming from the inner pad so could it be that the piston is starting to seize? A friend told me that the piston needed to be screwed back in with a special tool. Is he wrong? Both my Chilton's and GM shop manual don't explain this and they use a c-clamp like I did.

The weirdest thing is that when I had my car in the air, I put it in drive and applying pressure to the brake pedal didn't even stopped the wheel but only slowed it down.
However, the ebrake would stop the wheel like it should.

This only started after I did the pads and rotor and my old pads were worn out evenly and I had never seen any eccessive heat or smoke on my old ones.

I'd hate to change the caliper if it's a simple adjustment but I doubt I overlooked anything.

The car has over 100,000 miles on it, what life expectency does a caliper normally have?

Any ideas????
Thanks

 

There is no special tool or screwing of anything needed. Sounds to me like something (caliper bracket or piston) is sticking.

 

I'll be changing the caliper tonight so I guess I'll soon find out!

Thanks.

 

Your buddy was on the right track because most four wheel disc cars do have a screw in rear piston but fortunatly the f-body isnt one of them. Take that caliper back off and make sure you have anti sieze on all the contact points on the outer edges of your pads and that the slide pins are lubed and moving freely.Also make sure the brake hose isnt twisted, that would cause the brake to apply and not retract(smoking,turning red).I have seen that one more than once. It's an honest mistake with a long brake hose

 

That's good advice about the hose..
It can kink, and you don't see the kink, [it's the inner part that kinks not the outer rubber shield] and the brake won't 'retract' properly..
Drove me nuts one time when I couldn't find a sticking brake problem on my Chevy van..
Did you 'hang' the caliper by the hose when doing the job? That's a no no.. [you have to 'hang' it with a piece of wire.. not by the brake hose..]

 

I changed the caliper today and the overheating problem is gone. I have found that the rotor isn't centered compared to the caliper and that it rubs a little when turning left.

Can I just put washers in between the caliper and caliper mounting braket? I think that a 1mm thick washer is all I would need. I heard that this is a common problem especially when buying cheap brand rotors.

Any ideas if this would work?
thanks