Is it true that the rockers that were used on the lt4 engines had rocker nuts that were torqued down and didn't use locks?
I have a set of gm 1.6 rockers that have the rocker nuts with no poly locks on them and it doesn't look like you could use any with them.

 

that is correct...torque them to 18 pounds.

 

Let me add this..
'to the proper SHOULDERED LT4 studs'[not LT1 studs].. it matters.. LT 1 studs aren't shouldered, and torquing them they will be too tight..

 

the studs I have are actually shouldered.


I'm actually a little confused, if you just torque them down, how do you adjust the rockers?

 

Yep, tighten them down and you are done. They have no adjustment. I have LT4 rockers and studs on the wife's vert. Also, you have to use FACTORY LT4 rockers as they are designed for a 10mm stud. Aftermarket ones are designed for a 3/8" stud. You can not interchange them.

Ryan

 

How do I tell the difference between real lt4 rockers and the hotcam rockers? also, the rocker nut has a hole in the center but it's smooth and doesn't look like it would accept a poly-lock. but i'm pretty sure these are the real lt4 rocker since the stud is shouldered.

also, is there supposed to be any play with the rocker? the rocker is on the stud and the nut is tightened down and I can move the rocker up and down about a quarter of an inch!

 

Yes, those are LT4 studs. The hole doesnt have a jamb screw in it. As for telling the difference, you pretty much have to know where they came from. A 3/8" rocker won't fit on a 10 mm stud. So, if you try to put them on the stud and they don't fit, they are the GMPP ones. If they slide on they are original LT4 rockers. Also, I think that the LT4 rockers have 3 and 4 digit codes on the valve side on the top. 2 of those numbers will be 96 if I remember right which designates the year of manufacture.

Ryan

 

they have to set of numbers but on the right side there is a 96. and the initials CR right below the chevy symbol. so if they are the lt4 rockers should there be any play with the rocker and stud?

 

They should slide on and have nearly no clearance at all. The trunion of the rocker should not rock on the stud at all.

Ryan

 

Is this the same rockers that came with the Hot Cam kit? I have these on mine now, and don't think they are adjusted that way. Also I know I have the right studs since they were on my LT4 heads.

 

'Real' LT4 rockers are NOT the 'same as those that come in the Hotcam kit.. We mean rockers off an LT4 motor [not 'LT4 conversion etc]
Also, if you don't have an LT4 motor [say you just bought the heads, intake, etc] you have regular 3/8" LT1 studs [that go with the hotcam rockers] and the studs are not the 10mm shouldered studs.. [GM puts reg LT1 studs on their LT4 heads they sell]
You have to adjust rockers in the usual manner on those..
The shouldered studs require no adjustment [just torque down] due to the shoulder setting the adjustment 'spec'..
Why did they do this? don't ask me...
Confused yet?

 

I getcha, the only thing that bothers me is when I put the rocker on the stud and tighten the nut down there is up and down play with the rocker (there not yet on the heads) is this normal?

 

OK, thanks, no worries here then. Mine are adjusted the old way.

 

And unless you are using a cam with the exact same specs as the shouldered studs were made for you need to adjust them lik eany other SBC rocker.

 

Good point there..
I would think smaller base circle =valves 'too loose' larger base circle= 'too tight'..
lift and duration shouldn't matter really..
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I getcha, the only thing that bothers me is when I put the rocker on the stud and tighten the nut down there is up and down play with the rocker (there not yet on the heads) is this normal?

I am not sure, I don't have them.. but am under the impression that the stud shoulder is there so it 'bottoms out' when tightened?[meaning it shouldn't move 'up and down'?]
Someone that has a real LT4 could probably answer that better?