Any preference do either desencitize the stock modular or install LT4 knock modular? Is this LT4 module something that the LT4 engines have stock on them or an after market product- here the term all over but not to familiar.

 

LT-4 KM won't fix a thing,it's a waste of money. IF ya are getting false knock and ya are sure it is false,get the knock sensor tuned out in the computer or get the correct resistor and put it inline with your sensor(correct one can be found doing a board search)

 

I agree that the stock injectors should be fine. I ran the stock ones and pump for 10 years running 11s in my 383. Have you been dealing with one shop in particular? You may want to take it somewhere else for another set of eyes and diagnostic equipment. You should go over the entire combination again, slowly. If the tuner knew what he was doing he would've/should've told you if there was a major problem with your motor during the tuning.

Also, its over 90 degrees here now with 100% humidity...This will kill dyno #s and track times. I just watched a Z on the dyno at the GM nationals in Carlisle, PA pull 360 rwhp (It was every bit of 95 degrees outside!!) when he had made 400 up at SLP in the Spring..Take a deep breath. Its a machine and it can be fixed. Wish I could say that about some people I know....

--Alan

 

What valve springs are you running?

The 1.5 RRs are hurting you a little. That cam is pretty small and doesnt have a lot of lift to begin with... the 1.6s would have definitely been the better choice but theres not 50+ rwhp hidden away in the RRs either.

Do you have a the .bin file for the tune you are currently running with? If you got one from madwolf or pcmforless then Id bet its gonna be hard to improve.

 

i know conidtions at the track will effect my times it was pretty damn humid the other night when i was at the track- Also i have 1.5's rr becuase i was having an issue with the 1.6's hitting the valve covers- i'll see what happens at the track in better conditions- also have another guy look at it- btw- this will be the 6th shop- no one with LT1 knowledge 100% around my area-

 

What valve springs are you using and are you sure they were installed correctly? The cc305 isnt a radical cam but if you used stock or LT4 springs you might be experiencing valve float.

Have you tried a compression test?

Stock CC on the pistons?

What do the heads flow?

 

When it comes to building a motor the LT1 isnt that different from any older SBC.

 

You need headers

 

I have headers- FLP LT with straight pipes- no cats- As for the springs i purchased a fully assembled AFR head package so they have there specified spings in them- as for the part number i don't know-

 

Sorry, I read your sig a few times and my dumb butt missed it. Have you checked you plugs/gap. Maybee but who knows. Also take a spray bottle with water and spray every cylinder to see if they are all hot. Just a couple easy checks. Shooting in the dark. I've been troubleshooting mine since May. My motor will be dropped tomorrow in my driveway. So good luck.

Z

 

I've scanned this thread but I havent seen the answer. What were your 60ft times and 1/8 infor?

I personally don't like seeing 4.10s with 4L60s, gear spacing is too wide so you do better with gears that take advantage of its first gear and keep you out of OD.

 

Well as for my 60 ft times they also are the same as before any work was done to the car- maybe a tenth or two better from time to time. Last day at the track yield 1.8-1.9 60' times with 1/8 times around 8.7-8.9. I'm not sure yet how all these numbers add up when it comes down to calculation for a quarter mile. But i know my 1/4 mile times are a near second off i would think.

As for the 4.10's- that end feels ok- first gear does shift a little early but i never see OD- third gear runs around 5800-6000 right at the traps- i don;t have an exact because i don't believe my stock tach right now- need to install new one.

 

I had a bad converter once that was all stall but no multiplication. You should be able to light the tires up easily with 4.10s and 3000stall.

Likewise, is the shifting too soon (kinda like the OBDI/TC problem many people have had)

How hot is it up there? I know that my car feels like a dog in the current weather so "maybe" that is your issue.

Also, You need to scan/datlog and review knock count

This long distance diagnosis is hard so please excuse anything that appears as being a stupid question.

 

Could you elaborate about the 4.10's and TC and being able to spin the tires easily....because from a slow roll there is nothing and even from a dead stop....the only way i can light up the tires is if i bring the stall up a little bit or foot brake it........is that a sign of a bad TC......and YES the weather sucks for racing but i'm too far off for it to be the weather 100%.....at least thats what i think.......

 

Still wondering if TC could be a problem........what exactly?