Raise my stall higher? Or install gears?
Raise my stall higher? Or install gears?
Hey all.. trying to think of what to do to get ready for race season in a few months 
After the cam my 60' times hurt a bit and the car tended to sorta lug after the 60' and then pick up real nicely.
I have my 2800 Vigi in there with stock 3.23's out back... I have a free restall waiting for me, but not sure if I should just trying throwing in a set of 3.73's to pick up some more low end oomph, or should I just bump the stall up to 3200?
The cam is a 224/230 XE on a 112 LSA.

After the cam my 60' times hurt a bit and the car tended to sorta lug after the 60' and then pick up real nicely.
I have my 2800 Vigi in there with stock 3.23's out back... I have a free restall waiting for me, but not sure if I should just trying throwing in a set of 3.73's to pick up some more low end oomph, or should I just bump the stall up to 3200?
The cam is a 224/230 XE on a 112 LSA.
I'm pretty sure if you bump your stall up you wont have AS bad traction problems as with the 3.73's, unless you also get DR's, or already have them. I'd go for the stall to save my mileage. Just my .02
most say go with gears before heads/cam. but since you already have a cam that means your overdue for gears
. did you get the car tuned after the cam install, i cant think of what else would make it sluggish on the low end like you said?
. did you get the car tuned after the cam install, i cant think of what else would make it sluggish on the low end like you said?
Originally posted by chevyboy_z28
most say go with gears before heads/cam. but since you already have a cam that means your overdue for gears
. did you get the car tuned after the cam install, i cant think of what else would make it sluggish on the low end like you said?
most say go with gears before heads/cam. but since you already have a cam that means your overdue for gears
. did you get the car tuned after the cam install, i cant think of what else would make it sluggish on the low end like you said?
The car pulls the front end up (not the wheel.. yet).. pretty high (see http://www.zmydust.com/images/holyhell.jpg) but then kinda drops back down almost like too much traction holding it back, then takes a bit to wind back up.. this didn't happen before the cam...
The car has a mail order tune from pcmforless.. which is ok for now, but I'll be looking into a dynotune as soon as the availability comes up.. not too many people have LT1 edit for OBD2 lying around to work on these cars.
and kwikist.. see my 60's.. I have a tire
although I'm pretty sure I'll soon be pushing the limit of what I can do with these nitto's.. 1.7's are about as fast as I see people go with them, not sure if I'll pull a 1.6 with them.. although I'd like to.
Last edited by Javier97Z28; Aug 7, 2003 at 01:15 PM.
well what rpm do you cross the finish line at ?
is your converter locked when in third ?
I would recomend gears to put you in your cars power band when crossing the finish line since the cam changed that
is your converter locked when in third ?
I would recomend gears to put you in your cars power band when crossing the finish line since the cam changed that
ide grab a quality set of 3.73s and drag radials for now, and when you decide to get the convertor restalled grab a set of et streets (and 12-bolt if necessary)...youll have that m/f walkin on its hind legs then
.
.
Originally posted by faded93bird
well what rpm do you cross the finish line at ?
is your converter locked when in third ?
I would recomend gears to put you in your cars power band when crossing the finish line since the cam changed that
well what rpm do you cross the finish line at ?
is your converter locked when in third ?
I would recomend gears to put you in your cars power band when crossing the finish line since the cam changed that
But it does feel sorta out of the powerband at launch.
chevyboy.. i do have DR's read the posts lol...
Hey I would go with more converter and a dynotune first then swap gears. I switched from 3.23's to 3.42's and didn't notice any improvement. There are some LS1's that are running 11's with cam only with 3.23's. You probably want to go more than 3200 and go with some BFG's and you should be rolling. SAR2k has a 3800 Vig with boltons and BFG's he 60's 1.55's
He also has 3.73's though. I would go for the verter. JMO. Later Clint
He also has 3.73's though. I would go for the verter. JMO. Later Clint
Originally posted by T/A lt1
Hey I would go with more converter and a dynotune first then swap gears. I switched from 3.23's to 3.42's and didn't notice any improvement. There are some LS1's that are running 11's with cam only with 3.23's. You probably want to go more than 3200 and go with some BFG's and you should be rolling. SAR2k has a 3800 Vig with boltons and BFG's he 60's 1.55's
He also has 3.73's though. I would go for the verter. JMO. Later Clint
Hey I would go with more converter and a dynotune first then swap gears. I switched from 3.23's to 3.42's and didn't notice any improvement. There are some LS1's that are running 11's with cam only with 3.23's. You probably want to go more than 3200 and go with some BFG's and you should be rolling. SAR2k has a 3800 Vig with boltons and BFG's he 60's 1.55's
He also has 3.73's though. I would go for the verter. JMO. Later Clint
... Hard to decide really.. I think after my Nitto's are up I'm going to go with ET Streets since I only use them for track use
I need to get a pair of matching weld's for the back anyways 
Oh, and this was a track rental so they weren't enforcing the rules too well, but rest assured I took that car out
I'd go with gears. My reasoning behind this is one side wants to spin up quick, the other doesn't. I'm having a similar problem with a mild stall (2400), 224/230, and 2.73's. It's nothing major, but I'm thinking at least some 3.42's (for me) will get both sides on the same sheet of music.
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