I got my eliminator the other day and I'm getting ready to install it. The instructions say that with Hooker LTs, the bolt orientation is different, but do not specify how. Should the ends just be on the opposite side?
Thanks!

 

I had to use washers with my Mac's to keep the bolt ends from hitting.

Ryan

 

I had to dent my header primary a bit, and cut the bolts off flush at the nut for it to clear my jet-hots.

 

The hell is a rag joint???

 

Rag joint is the round circular piece made of rubber/fiber in your steering shaft. It wears out and becomes sloppy, and can be replaced with a solid piece (rag joint eliminator) to remove a LOT of steering slop.

 

Who sells this doohickey? Mines got a lot of years and turns on it now, and I would dearly love to get rid of the old nasty looking joint..

Dave C.

 

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/

 

Whats up with the TA on that site? Has anyone used it and what advantages does it give?

Brandon

 

is the eliminator smaller in diamater than the stock rag joint? i had to dent my header so it would clear and sometimes it rubs a little on my primary

 

I've got FLP's, so I can't be of too much help, but there are a few pics of mine here if those will help any. I didn't have to modify the FLP's at all.

Brandon, the deal with the UE TA is that it's decoupled. Short torque arms are great for traction when accelerating. For both drag and exiting a corner on a roadcourse or autocross. The problem with them for the latter two uses is they cause/make worse brake hop. The UE TA is a short (very short) torque arm during acceleration which is great for traction. But during braking, the regular torque arm part "decouples"--it can only function during acceleration. At this point, the suspension becomes a 3-Link utilizing the upper sliding link that can only function during braking. This gives the suspension a much longer Side View Swing Arm Length and lower Anti-Lift values. This minimizes the chances of brake hop.

It's basically having your cake and eating it too. Here's a pic of mine.

 

FWIW,I have Hooker Lts and could have put the bolts any old way without a problem.It is a nice piece.

 

Wait, why cant the rag joint be cut to the shape of the steering assembly? That Fred Flinstone money shape?

 

Ok, after going to the site and looking it over, I'll pass. Basically an aluminum disk to replace the rubber piece but at the same diameter. Not what I'm looking for. I visited flaming river's site, and I'm going to see what it's going to take to truely ELIMINATE the rag-joint, since I'm more interested in picking up a little more clearence and don't mind whatever vibration I get in exchange for the extra room..

Dave C.

 

Well, I just finished installing it. I also did the Strano hollow bar at the same time as well as new moog tie rod ends. (ok ok, I also did an oil change after it's been sitting in storage so long, but I doubt that makes a difference )

The first time I "test fitted" it, the bolts were loose and I didn't put the shaft all the way in at the bottom and it was BARELY touching the header with the longer bolts. It would have been OK, but I decided to cut the ends on the longer bolts anyway.

I think it would've been much easier if they just included bolts of the correct size, since everyone seems to experience the same problems.

But either way, I didn't notice any difference from it. The sway bar did make a HUGE difference at cornering though. I was shocked.