aarontracy

ok i just bought a set of comp pro mag 1.6 rr's. i know the stock stud in a lt1 is 3/8 but i ordered 7/16. i was under the impression that i could just order some new 7/16 studs to replace my 3/8's but i was told there is more to it than that? am i going to have to do any work to the head or can i just put them in like i orginally thought? sorry if its a stupid question but u gotta learn some how.

TransAm396

no thats it...they screw and unscrew..but they are a lil longer..your gonna needguide plates and hopefully you didnt get the SA(self aligning)

HardcoreRM125

There is nothin else to it.

Stock LT1 rocker studs are 7/16" on the bottom, 3/8" on top. So you can simply unbolt the 3/8" and bolt in a 7/16" stud.

Since ou are oging to promags though, I am going to assume they are NSA. You will need guide plates. However, when you buy studs, you DO NOT need the longer stud set. If you get these in 7/16", they will not be fully seated on the head even though the threads are bottomed out. The guideplates will be loose, and it would never work.

Just order normal length, 7/16" rocker arm studs. Either comp hi-tech, or ARP, their heavy duty set. They actually are the same thing. My comp Hi-Tech studs have ARP stamped on them on the ends of the stud. Dont forget Loctite and a torque wrench. Some beer, lack of children & women, band aids, and a few friends also will help with the install. The back springs are a bitch if your changing them. And if you have long tubes on, rest assured fitting the air fitting into the #2 and #6 cylinder is a pain in the nuts.

Still though, worth while mod to do. And its easiest to just adjust the valves with the motor running, a piece of carbdoard from valve cover to fender well, with no alternator and **** on to get in the way. It only takes about 5 minutes if that. Very simple.

aarontracy

thats what i thought.. same guy also said to run 1.6s on the intake and 1.5 on exhaust, i wasnt to sure about that one either but his car does run better than mine.... i got the NSA and im about to order the guide plates.

TransAm396

if anyone says you need different springs with 1.6 rr....they are wrong..ive ran them in 3 trans am's with stock springs and NEVER had an issue.

aarontracy

how high do u rev ur motor?

MeanGreen97Z

I'd replace the springs if you are in the higher mileage area. 100k miles plus. Good peace of mind and cheap at the same time. LT4 valve springs good to .525" lift are only 35$.

TransAm396

i pulled it to 6 almost all the time. I beat the **** outta my first 2 93's and they kept on askin for more..my first one even had a 150 shot on it and 133k on the stock springs.

shoebox

IMO, better to be safe than expect to be lucky. I would change the valve springs when going to 1.6 rockers.

Javier97Z28

Who cares.. the $35 LT4 springs will run ya are cheap insurance.

wrd1972

When I installed my new CC 7/16" rockers studs with GM guide plates, I was concerned that the bottoms were too long. The bottom of my new CC 7/16" studs was 1/4" longer than the stock stud even with the guide plate. When I started threading them in they were bottoming out too soon cause the guide plate was still loose. It just felt scary to continue torqueing at this point.

If you look in the holes where the studs thread you will see heli-coils that allow the the studs to thread. I have heard people say to just start torqueing and the heli-coil leg will break and the stud will torque down. I have also heard people say to cut the leg off with cutters but to not drop the leg in the head. You certainly do not want to damage this heli-coil.

I did not like either of these methods. I decided to grind a some length off of the bottom of the new longer CC studs. I also allowed for the thickness of the guide plate too. After the bottoms of the studs were a bit shorter they threaded perfectly into the heads and torqued down exactly the way they should without affecting the leg or or possibly damaging the heli-coil.

Regarding the springs, at the very least put the LT4 springs. There is noticable power to be had.

aarontracy

im going with a beehive style spring just so i wont have to worry about it anymore.

HardcoreRM125

Stock springs on 1.6's will eventually lead to valve float /and/or coil bind.

Just change the springs. And if you want a step better than LT4's look at some comp beehives. These are pretty versatile. So if you want to cam it later, they can handle over .600 lift. 918's.

aarontracy

forgot to mention im going with a cc503 cam, little bit of n20 , some long tubes, true duals.. and a few other little things.. ya beehives for sure.

MeanGreen97Z

Those stock lifters might not be ready for that kind of pressure. If they are higher mileage i'd inspect them carefully before throwing a higher lift rocker AND springs with that seat pressure.