I just installed Hooker LT headers in my 96 Formula, and I managed to get BOTH headers in without too much trouble, and without lifing the motor at all.

I wanted to share how I did it in hopes of saving some people a little time.

Ok, since there are a multitude of write-ups on the net about the header install, I'm only going to focus on the passenger side since that's the most common side that people have to lift.

First, my car is a 96 with automatic, so your results and experience may vary slightly.

I used some SOLID 4" x 8" concrete blocks to put under my jack stands so I had good solid support. I used two blocks side by side, flat on the ground by two blocks thick (an 8" x 8" x 8" cube of solid concrete basically). The top two blocks ran perpendicular to the bottom set to distribute the weight better. Also, put 1/2 your jackstand on one block and 1/2 on the other. I used a total of 4 blocks for each jackstand.

Ok, with the 8" of concrete, I left my jackstands all the way down, with a piece of wood on the head, against the front subframe where it mounts to the center section of the chassis. I guess this was 8-10" behind the front jack pad on the car.

I had to put my jack on two layers of blocks as well to get enough height to get the blocks and stands under it. Also, make sure to chock the rear wheels so the car doesn't roll or slip backwards on you.

Once I got the car this high, it was pretty easy.

On the passenger side of my car, there was a little room between the bell housing and the fender well / floor pan area. I turned my header on it's side (so the head flange was facing UP) and tilted the header so the #2 primary would slide up into this area. I started toward the back so I could get the primary above the k-member. Once it's in there like that, slide it somewhat up and forward, then rotate a little (the head flange up toward the block a little) and slide it in a lilttle more. We did this rotate/slide deal a time or two. Then it came to a point where the tranny coolant lines were kinda holding us up, I just pulled them out of the way while working the header into place.

You might want to place a towel on the k-member down there to help ensure you don't scrape the coating off your header, my header rubbed on the k-member but didn't scrape any coating off.

All in all, about 5 minutes or so to get that header up in place. It will REALLY help if you've got someone who can help guide/tug the header up into place when you're doing this.

Well, that's it... Just wanted to share my experience with my passenger side header. I hope it helps someone out there.

 

ttt for others to see.

 

Its kinda odd, I have installed LTs on both of my cars (93 and 97 T/As) and the 93 went without a hitch, the 97 had less room and needed the engine lifted slightly. The difference I noticed was in the tranny belhousings converter cover bolt bosses. The 97 uses a much larger bolt here therefore there is more material here obstructing the pass side headers entry. a die grnder will remove this and allow future installs to be easier. (I did mine after the fact , too late)