My engine has not been running properly since I installed a hotcam and 1.6 roller rockers in my 1994 LT1 Camaro. My buddy is coming over tomorrow and said he is removing the driver's side valve cover and putting the motor to TDC to check the timing I think. I am just a little confused. What would he be looking for there. He mentioned something about checking the valves at TDC. My motor would start but running horrible and there was no power when I would put the car in gear so he thinks it has something to do with installing the cam. Any help would be appreciated. Just trying to understand this.

 

Did you have the pcm reprogrammed?
Do you REALLY know how to adjust valves?

A mod list like most have in their signature with info like programming would help us a lot in helping you.

 

I'm not adjusting the valves. My buddy is coming over this week. My PCM has been programmed by PCMforless. My mods are:
1994 LT1, hotcam. 1.6 RR, headers, underdrive crank pulley, SS ramair box, B&B triflo catback, 3.73 gears, new timing chain, new bearings in the bottom end, stock heads and pistons, and auto tranny with a B&M shiftkit.
I put the motor in my car last summer. Tried everything to get it running and it did start but idled around 500rpms. I haven't had the car going since September but trying to get it going now. Explained all this to my buddy and he said my valves my need to be adjusted. Don't know but I does get frustrating when I still don't have the car running yet.

 

Providing the engine ran fine before the cam swap then yeah you either have the cam timing off or the valves not adjusted properly.

 

Yeah I am going to go with the valve adjustment too.
A LOT of the instructions you see on adjusting them end up in you having them WAY too tight. When you installed the cam what did you consider "zero lash"? This is where there is a lot of bad info out there that leads to exactly these problems.

 

I didn't do the engine build myself. I friend of mine did. I asked him that question about the valves and he said he tighten them to 0 lash and then half a turn. Another friend of mine is coming over today so hopefully I can get this figured out. Thanks for the help again.

 

Are you sure that you don't have a couple of plug wires crossed?

Chris

 

No. I thought that too but checked my firing order. Everything is good there.

 

See the problem is in finding zero lash, there is a lot of info out there about using resistance to spining the pushrod as zero lash, by that time though there is already too much preload because oil is doing it's job and lubricating the rod so it spins easy even under some pressure. With poly locks like roller rockers use zero lash is somewhere right around when the nut is finger tight. Finger tighten it then back it off trying to move the pushrod vertically, when it moves then tighten till it does not and that is zero lash.

Years ago I learned this one the hard way myself, a mechanic friend had told me to spin the pushrod to find zero and doing it that way resulted in a VERY poorly running car.

 

It does definately come down to experience and the feel for things

 

There is OVER .100 adjustment in a stock lifter,soooo if its 1/8 turn or 1 turn it shouldn't matter on the running.
The difference comes at 6500 if the valves want to float. If they are at 1/8 they can't pump up as much and hold the valve open and takes less time to pump down.
All of this can be cured(if it is happening ) with the correct spring's.
This doesn't have anything to do with cranking or idle. If the valves were set they need to run a few minutes to pump down,if it won't crank(common problem) then back them off and set them running or set one cyl at a time and crank it up and let that cyl pump down before going to the next one.
My guess is the valves are hung open(lifters not pumped down) and it don't have enough compression to crank.
Refer to Shoebox's site for details.

 

The car is cranking just won't start. I actually had it running about 3 months about but was running horrible. I checked my compression yesterday and the average was over 200 compression.

 

Turning over is my way of saying the starter is turning the engine.
Crank is when the engine runs after the starter turns it over and smoke comes out of the exhaust.
How long did ya let it run?
It could take 15 or more minutes to settle down.
Hope the had plenty of P/V clearence in it. If not ya may have valves that hit the pistons if the P/V clearence was tight.

Ya got spark and fuel?

 

I ran the car on a few different ocassions probably around 15 mintues or so each time. This was back in September then I haven't bothered with the car until now. The car just turns over now with no start. I am getting fuel and didn't check for spark this time but was getting it back in September. I had to replace my opti so that is new. When I had it running I backed it out of the garage but pretty much had to floor it to move the car. No power at all. Lots of tranny fluid and stifts fine so I don't know what else to check.

 

Check for spark first. If that's OK pull ALL your plugs,they may be fouled from fuel or oil from the new rings. Gap them to .035 before putting them or new one's back in. Do not get expensive plugs to get running right. Some cheap Ac's will do and don't by plugs with exotic metal in them.