Coming out of the stock GM waterpump is this tube which requires a hose be installed and run to the bottom of the radiator or something...The problem is, I have this turbocharger sitting right there and installing a hose in that position is clearly going to interfere with the turbocharger.

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Has anyone repositioned that tube by rotating it? I've heard the tube is epoxied into the housing and therefore I would assume it will leak if you break the adhesive by rotating it. If I pull it out and apply epoxy, does it require much force to press the tube back into the housing? It doesn't seem this will be a major issue but I want to know if I will need to reseal the tube after twisting it around.

 

I have an old water pump in the garage. Just took a long wrench and rotated that tube. It just seems to be pressed in.

 

I may have an old one somewhere. I'm going to see if it will pull out very easily. If so, I think this will work out.

 

I'm thinking you can just rotate the tube, without a leak. It may be difficult to pull the tube.

 

Procharger and Powerdyne Supercharger installion:

For clearance purposes the 5/8” elbow that exits the
waterpump must be rotated carefully upward to the 2 o’clock
position. Using a small piece of pipe or cylindrical object that is
close in size to the inside diameter of the 5/8” elbow, carefully
rotate the elbow to the 2 o’clock position.

 

Pull the tube out, thread the hole for a pipe plug and plug it off. Cap the end at the radiator and remove the hose all together.

 

the tube is pressed into the pump housing. Just turning it may or may not work. You for sure can turn it but it may leak afterwards. That tube is where you would plumb in an oil cooler. If you are not running a cooler then you can remove the tube and either tap the hole and plug it with a pipe plug, install a freeze plug, or weld the hole shut. The just cap off the radiator end.

If you are using an oil cooler you can try to move it. They are in there pretty good and you might damage it trying to spin it. It can be done though. And it can leak afterwards... Or pull it out, tap the hole and install a new threaded fitting pointing in the direction you want.

 

I know you know what you're talking about but what is the purpose of that line? This is not going to degrade my cooling capabilities is it? This method certainly seems like a way to avoid leaks.

EDIT: I see in the Projectz28's post what that tube is for....

Thanks guys, I learn something new everytime I get on here.

 

Y and B body cars do not have this port. You are fine without the hose. It was only for the event that the car had an oil cooler.

 

So then if this waterpump goes bad, could I order a water pump listed for the 96 Vette and not have to worry about plugging it off?

 

Yes.

*EDIT*

Actually, I forgot that the heater hose return pipe on the Corvette pumps is a different shape than the f-body pumps. (It sticks straight out to the side instead of pointing upward.) Both pumps would physically bolt up and run, you'd just need to deal with the upper heater hose issue if you ran the Vette pump.

Would probably just be easier to cap the pipe off again.

 

As noted, the pipe configurations are not the same (but close). If you are creative, you might could make it work.

 

I reclocked the tube to ~6 o'clock on my wp using (istr) a 7/16" 1/4 drive long socket which fit in the tube snuggly. There are no leaks. The tube seems to be mechanically swaged in the housing very tightly as it did take an unexpectedly large and constant amount of force to reposition it.

 

I think the fittings are 3/8" npt, not pressed in, I just bought some that thread into my stock pump since I lost my fittings Art

 

Can you just put a rubber heater hose cap on it?