First off, the windage tray wont clear the new crank. How much horsepower will be lost with out the windage tray? Any adverse side effects for leaving it out? How do you prime the oil system before you start it up on an LT1?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

What kind of crank? Mine fit like a glove. I just had to hammer a little on the side of the pan to get clearance in one spot. But the tray was alright.

Mike

 

Mark where the crank is hitting the windage tray, take it off and grind, remeasre, gind repeat. Give about an 1/8th inch cleance between your crank and the tray.

 

Great idea, I had'nt thought of that. By the way I ahve an eagle crank.

 

Get a Milodon dimond windage tray, its alot better anyway. dont go without a tray.

Just a FYI if you have the same eage crank I did you will notice that the crank has no chamfer around the flywheel bolt holes and the stock one did. you'll have to get a high speed steel 82 degree 3/4 countersink bit from any hardware store and do it yourself or the flywheel bolts wont go all the way in. its alctually really easy to do, but the bit is about 10$

 

I have the eagle cast steel crank as well. I didnt notice the flywheel holes , didnt seem to have a problem with them, maybe I better check em

 

Doesn't the flywheel get sandwhiched between the bolt head and the crank anyway?

 

I had ARP flywheel bolts, I thought that was the problem they have about 3/16 shoulder on them, but I went to a few shops and all the bolts i found had that shoulder. Without the chamfer the shoulder hits the crankand the bolt dont go quite all the way in. if you did it in a poorly lit area you might not notice it. you would probibly have a hell of a rattle of you ran it that way, and eventually probibly a cracked flexplate.

 

I don't think I understand what your talking about. Are you talking about the shoulder on the underside of the bolt head?

 

yep. try to thread the bolt in all the way without the flywheel even on. that shoulder hits the crank and it wont go in all the way, then do it on the stock crank. it goes in all the way because there is a chamfer around the holes. then put the bolt through the flywheel (while its away from the motor) notice the the shoulder sticks all the way through the flywheel and would hit the crank before the bolt was tightened all the way.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the bolts and if there is anything else you think I should know post up. I really appreciate it.