Is there anything in particular that I need to watch for? Anything that may become a problem for me installing them? Or is is a somewhat easy process?

I bought the Pacesetter Quiktrip Longtubes. Ceramic coated.

 

I would buy a few cans of PB blaster and start hosing down all of the old manifold and y-pipe bolts. Let the stuff sit for a couple of days if possible.

 

Installing headers isn't that bad - I just installed a set of Kooks. (But
beware, I didnt have a tranny bolted up to the engine, which made
it really easy )

In addition to 2000GTP's suggestion of using PB-Blaster, I have a couple:

* on the driver side, between cylinders 1 & 3, remove the temp sensor
(watch for water coming out when you remove it). If you dont
remove it, there is a distinct possibly you'll bump it removing the
old manifold (or installing the headers) and break it (see photos).
* remove all spark plugs
* remove the O2 sensors. I had to remove the passenger side O2
AFTER I removed the exhaust manifold - if you have to also, then
be careful when lowering the manifold (not to damage the O2).
* I used (stainless steel) "socket head" bolts - those are the kind
where an allen wrench is used (you'll see in the photos). I think
these are MUCH easier to use then hex-head bolts.
* be prepared to remove the through-bolt on the motor mounts.
(I had to lift the engine slightly to slide the headers up).
* I suggest you remove the oil filter. I use K&N oil filters and they
are slightly longer than the standard, "shorty' filter. Had I left the
K&N in, I would have NEVER gotten it out after the headers were
bolted in. I cant use K&N's anymore (darn it) because of one of
the header pipes.
* Leave all the header bolts slightly loose and do a test fit of the
the y-pipe - when you're sure all is good, tighten up the bolts.
* I HIGHLY recommend you get a set of OTVC looms (I used
Made4You looms - see photos).
* you might want to install new spark plugs (i use TR55's).
* you might want to install new wires (I installed MSD 8.5's).
* you might want to consider installing new motor mounts, depending
upon the mileage. I have 150k+ miles and the rubber was no good,
even though they looked fine when bolted up. When I opened the
clamshell case and pulled the rubber out, they were BAD (photos).
* get a tackle box and label all bolts coming out/put in their own slot.
* be prepared to do some custom "exhaust modifications". I had to
go to the auto parts to get a 2 3/4 x 2 3/4" coupler to mate the
y-pipe's end pipe and the cat-back's pipe.
* you'll most likely have to remove the oil-dipstick tube - I had to
for the Kooks. And if you do have to remove the tube, DO NOT
BEND it anywhere in the section of the pipe that lives in the block,
because if you get the *slightest* kink, it wont go back in. I know,
I had to buy a new tube ($18) because of a minor bend.
* now's your chance to clean up the starter, since it has to be
removed (watch for any shims that may exist).

As I said, it's not that difficult - it's a matter of being prepared
beforehand. Make a list of steps and run it through your head
before you actually start - it'll make things easier. Hopefully, I
havent left off anything glaring - I'm sure if I have, someone will
fill in.

Look in here for some photos - I dont have all posted yet, but at
least you'll get an idea about some things (look in both the "Kooks"
and "Z28" albums):
http://picasaweb.google.com/calder.cay

I'll have more photos up starting this afternoon.

 

Good point on the temp sensor in the driver's side head, I learned that lesson the hard way.

 

Put in new motor mounts at the same time unless you want the headers banging off the crossmember.

 

Wow. That's great. I really appreciate you typing all of that.

Thanks for the other responses too!

 

Also, I was wondering about exhaust/mufflers.

I was planning on running dual exhaust back to twin Magnaflow mufflers. I am not going to put on cats. There is an exhaust shop nearby that does pretty good work for reasonable prices. I planned on trailering the car to them after I got the headers on. They can make all the pipes that I need. (Including y-pipe if I choose that route as well.) Would running duals be worth it? Or not? Just looking for opinions. Thanks!

 

Personally, if I had the chance to go with true duals, I would. That is one of the things I regret not doing when I did my exhaust setup.

 

Well that's the plan. I know that duals are better if you have higher hp numbers, but I think that it would be better overall anyway.

The only problem I'm having is finding the right Magnaflow mufflers. Any suggestions on where to find them? I've got Flowmaster right now. But I am told they are "Flowstealers" I want to try and keep it on the quiet side, so I want a good muffler.

 

yungin' w/a z28:

Two points to add to the nice to-do list by "caldercay" ... run a thread chaser down all the header bolt holes to clean the threads out (mine had some sort of dried up thread-lube in them from the factory) and my oil dipstick tube also had a little sealant on it. Clean that dried material off and it will seat all the way back in with a fresh, small dab of silicone on it.

Good Luck

 

Cost-saving tip: Don't strip the bolt holes

Unless you want to do a H/C project next LMAO


If you chose to use non-locking bolts, be sure to check and re tighten between the first few heat cycles.
Otherwise, you risk blowing a header gasket and having to do this all over again.

I prefer to use Percy's dead-soft gaskets (reusable) and stage 8 locking bolts.
But that's personal preference and certainly not a requirement.

 

leave the o2sensors out when you 1st start the engine do it about 2 times

be sure to get o2 extensions, I didn't do to good soldering

 

Keep band aids on hand.

 

Exactly the reason I am doing H/C/I/355 now.

Impatience was kicking my ***. Had to get the car out of my friends garage.

 

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but get yourself a self-adhering ace bandage from a drug store and wrap the primaries before installing. It'll really help out since it's a tight fit...