Sorry to hyjack your thread but you have me worried. I did a h/c swap about 6 months ago and I used a hyd. lifter to check pushrod length. The car runs fine and makes good hp. Should I be worried and is there any other way to check without pulling the intake and useing the solid lifter. I used 7.200 rods

 

Both....
I would see where it was at full close. If it is centered then goes out during lift NG.
It needs to start behind center get to center in mid lift then roll out at full lift and return or visa versa either/or.
It needs the sweep on both sides of center or as close as ya can come.

 

NO not IMO.

If it ain't broke DON'T fix it. Ya will only give up a small amount of lift and gain some wear on the guides. The acceleration of the valve might be effected but ya ain't running Pro Stock.
It will probably be OK if it has run this long--

 

Thanks.

 

wrd1972 ~ You have me a little worried. Did you ever convert one of yours to a solid lifter? You cant check this properly without doing it. And, trying to buy a solid lifter that is the same length from roller tip, to bottom of pushrod cup, will be hard to do. Even shopping with the same brand. You definatly need to make sure you do this all with a solid lifter.

Good luck with it all. The 7.050 looks like it will probably work out the best for you. See where it is when the cam is on its base circle, mid lift, and peak lift.

 

I will do this today and I didn't get anything. Is this a different method? Do you use pushrods lenght checker. I will find the correct lenght while heads on the block.

 

No checker just get an adjustable PR that will stand the spring pressure you are running(one with a jam nut),convert one of your lifters to solid,mark the stem with Persian bluing(paint coloring) and go longer/shorter on the PR until ya get the pattern in the center and as narrow as possible. Just because it is in center is not good enough. Ya need to keep playing with it until the pattern is as close to .060 as possible. Do ex/intake.
Usually ya have to go more than .025 to see much change.

 

No I am still using the hydraulic lifter. I have heard many so you can while others say you cant so I dont know what to believe right now. I have used the Carcraft method and the final outome is to use a 7.150" PR instead of the 7.200" PR.

I understand that removing the intake and installing a solid lifter is best but I cant do that right now.

I am finding it very hard to believe that my Pro-mags are requiring a much shorter PR than stock.

I think I have to rely on the carcraft method for now. The way I see it this method does not care about whether the lifter is solid or hydraulic, maybe I am wrong. When I am at base circle and I mark the stem on lightly mount the rocker to make the mark I get just under dead center with 7.200" and I get dead center with the 7.150" PR.

I am aware that the photos that show the dead center mark with the hydraulic lifter are likely to move upward when the engine is running, I guess this is all part of the learning process.

 

Let's just hope you get the right pushrod length and this IS a learning "process" and not a learning "experience".

 

Tomorrow I should measure my pushrods lenght, and couldn't understand, its too complicated. The only difference in my engine is comp R's to Morels. So I think I will measure the height difference between Comp R's and Morels and will order according to that. I HOPE I will not screw it. I just bought Morels to be safe, but with a wrong pushrods lenght, my safety thought will be meaningless.

 

Update.
I bought a spring at the hardware store to replace the LT4 spring for test purposes. There is no chance of lifter compression or callapse now. The total pressure probobly does not exceed 10 pounds.

My new patterns were nearly identical when compared to the ones in the pics, I would say to within .015" with the new light test spring.

Based on this the 7.050" PR's are going in, they have the dead centered pattern with minimal sweep.

For the heck of it I tested the stock pushrod 7.200" too, the pattern was very low with the test spring just like in the pictures so the stock lengths are very clearly too long.

Thanks again all.

 

Im confused now.
I have bone stock lifters.

 

The Morel's are longer so I have been told.

 

Sorry 'bout that,wrong quote.

Corrected

 

You cant just measure the difference in length between the Morels and CompR's. They collapse a different amount. For example, say the Morels collapse .15 and the Comp R's collapse .30. When the lifter is fully collapsed ( Like testing the length, without converting to a solid lifter ) the Comp R would compress a extra .15" and would therefore SHOW that you need a .15" longer pushrod than you really NEED. You CAN NOT measure the differnce and add/subtrat from 7.2" and call it a day. You will end up with the wrong length pushrod. It might work for some, but it would be by luck.

The people who say you can do it with a hydraulic, are those who have done it, and had the motor fun just fine. That doesnt make them right. I could go fill my car with SuperTech Oil and a Fram Filter, it will run, but it isnt right to do. Dont cut corners if you are going this far.

You simply CAN NOT use a hydraulic to measure pushrod length. It needs to be converted or you will be off in your measurement. There is no two ways around it. I dont care what car craft says. Car craft doesnt warrenty your motor. An engine builder does. Listen to 1RacerDude, Bret, and LE. Doing it your way WILL give you the wrong length.

As for using a very soft 10# spring, I think this still would give you the wrong results. I have comp high tech pushrods in my car, and their heavy as **** compared to stock. Combine a heavier than stock pushrod with a 10# spring, and your going to have some pressure on them lifters. Possibly enough to compress them. Just do it right and take the intake manifold off and convert one. It wont take long. And how much does a 3/8" bolt cost? a couple bucks to get a few ...