You might want to look into the delteq setup.

 

The 94 lt1's in the impalas had iron heads.

 

he said 94 had iron heads?

I didn't realize impallas were using iron heads

 

You shouldn't have too much trouble with water getting in there. There is a guy over on JeepForum.com with an LT1 in his CJ7 and he hasn't had any trouble that he has mentioned at least. His name over there is LT1CJ, so maybe you can ask him some questions about how it does in the water.

 

I think that dude only has the engine.

 

I was thinking the same thing...Or the Bailey Electronics LTCC as either one will mostly eliminate the ned for the Opti. I know the LTCC would be mostly waterproof, as it uses The LS1 coilpacks...That'll allow you to mount them wherever you want...possibly a cleaner engine bay.

Just another idea..

Chris

 

Thanks for all the responses dudes. Yes I have the engine only. It arrived on my doorstep in a crate apparently with 69K on it. The truck is over at the shop but when I get out there next Ill have a read of the VIN and put this all to rest. Im also gonna ring the guy who I bought the motor off and fire him a few questions, if the motor is a '95 and not a '94 do I believe his 'it came out of a driving car' story, or for that matter the '69K miles' story. In saying that the engine was extremely professionally removed with zero loom cutting, all apertures blocked off for transport and all accessories included - even cat and fuel lines. It has very clean oil in it and still had some bright green coolant in the waterpump housing. I am still undecided about whether to pull the opti apart, clean it up and ATV the hell out of it when I put it back together or just leave it...How robust are the factory seals on those things? As you can imagine, the massive amount of custom work, hardware and adaptors to get my project to where it is has left me pretty low on funds, so I am inclined to at least wait til it craps out before replacing it with a new one. However when that happens, I'll definietly be going to delteq or similar. Thanks in advance. Matt

 

I'd replace it. My opti crapped out at 60K, others last 200K. Your decision.

 

[QUOTE=toby360]But thats just be, I'm still waiting to get an inverse torx set to open my old one up so I still dont know what they look like inside QUOTE]

Ive been told that if you take one of the torx screws off the throttle body and double nut it you can use it to take the opti apart. Never tried it though.

 

heh poor mans inverse torque bit set set. while your at it go buy all the sizes at NAPA.
sure it's cheap but it works and you'll pay over 200 for a set from snap-on

 

You can get one of these from any auto parts store that sells Lisle tools. I got mine a Car Quest.

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=377

 

I wrote down what I thought were the block numbers so I could settle once and for all what year my engine was but turns out I wrote down the wrong ones (right hand side back rim of the block where the bellhousing bolts up 252232918, I have no idea what that number is...), so I'll get hold of the proper ones tomorrow. I rang up the dude who I bought my engine off and he swears he pulled it out of a driving '94 F-body. Im inclined to believe him so I think somebody must of done the opti conversion before me. I was also all set to put the opti back on but then had second thoughts. When I blow into the feed line and block off the vacuum line air escapes out of the opti harness connector. Is this supposed to happen? Regardless Im gonna open up the opti tomorrow because if air is escaping through the harness port then antifreeze may have got in there when I removed the opti (it kinda p*ssed out everywhere). The tech article (link below) says clean up the inside http://www.fierolt1.com/lt1_9394OptiRepair.htm
with a mild soap like Murphies. Im not familiar with this brand of soap (I live in New Zealand), is this some sort of automotive cleaner? hand soap? Also, Im gonna have to do the manifold cover screw torx bit trick outlined in this thread (thanks dudes), since I cant find a inverse torx bit without ordering one and wanna finish this job tomorrow, what size nuts do you put on the screw so I can buy some (or is there somewhere else on the LT1 I can steal a couple from). Thanks in advance guys

 

I snagged a 95 opti at a salvage yard for $25.. I completely disassembled it.. I even pressed the shaft out so I could get to the bearing.. I cleaned and regreased it.. I've seen an opti fail from a seized bearing.. won't have any of that

 

Murphy's soap is a Bar used for precleaning stains and laundry also used for other cleaning.

 

Pulled the opti apart today after much driving around to find the right tools. Looked clean as a whistle under the first black plastic cover (part with all the plug leads on it). Removed the rotor (went for another drive to find a small enough torx bit -T8) pulled off the inner plastic cover and holy sh*t lots of oxidation and weird rusty gel inside. Real glad I pulled the thing apart now. I cleaned it up really well with hot water and dishwashing liquid paying special attention to the seal mating surfaces, gave a good rinse with more scalding water, allowed to air dry and then gave all parts a light spray with starting fluid (to remove moisture) and create a thin protective film of oil. I also gave the rotor and electrical contacts a light rub with some fine sandpaper to rmove any oxidation (I took before and after photos but cant post). I gave the seals a good clean and set them back into their retainers with some hylomar. I then hylomar'd the top of the seals before putting the whole thing back together resulting in a totally sealed unit (besides vent holes). Will install it tomorrow and will keep you fullas informed re its longevity (hopefully 50K miles down the track).